Why would you have to lift the engine to replace the cooler line? Its
only about a foot long between the front of the engine metal lines and
the radiator. Or are you saying your metal lines are leaking? Even so,
you shouldnt have to raise the engine any.
Dan Weeks wrote:
A year or so ago, I patched the trans cooler line on my 300SD by
slipping fuel line over the break and firmly attaching both ends with
stainless worm-drive hose clamps, torqued down until rubber was
popping through the holes in the clamps.
Worked fine at speeds of up to 90, full throttle shifts, etc. for a
year, and I had been reassured by the list, notably including Doktor
Booth, that there was little pressure in the line and I (to quote)
"SHOULD be ok, but that replacing the line would the the BETTER
solution." He was right, on both counts. Of course.
I was delighted that Sadie started right up with only one glow and no
block heater at 4 above this morning. Three blocks later the trans
started slipping. Turned around and barely made it back in the drive,
to find a large pool of trans fluid on the pavement where I'd started.
Apparently very cold trans fluid makes enough pressure to pop off
hose clamps. I'll get a tow down to my local indy for a fluid and
filter change, including a TC drain, and to have them install the new
line I bought from Rusty ages ago but chickened out on replacing when
I found I'd have to unbolt an engine mount and lift the engine.
Should I be worried about any trans damage I may have done in the 6
blocks of driving I did as the trans was emptying?
Dan
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net
