Put the shelf battery in the car.  Couldn’t tell a difference, but system 
voltage is running at about 14.5 VDC, which is a good thing.

Drove it a bit now that it’s legal.  If it’s in LHM I could barely tell, as it 
had no problem accelerating and shifts were at the proper rpm/speed.

Still idling high and surging at no load.  ASR light is on still, too.

Ran my C3 on it and got all kinds of weirdness.  Communications failures, weird 
faults that don’t resurface despite not clearing anything, etc.  I’m wondering 
if I’ve got something going on in the diagnostic connector, as the C3 worked 
fine on the R129 and W210 wagon, so I know it’s not goofy.  There have been 
reports by other 400E and 500E owners about issues with corrosion in the 
diagnostic connector and all sorts of havoc it can wreak.

Got the O2 sensor replaced.  Wow, was that a pig.  Thank goodness for three 
days of Kroil soaking….

Tomorrow I’m going to work on getting the lower body cladding back on with the 
new clips I’ve got.  Not sure I have enough, but more are on their way.

-D




> On Feb 24, 2018, at 8:53 PM, Dwight Giles <dwight.gi...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Sounds like progress Dan. I wouldxsay to rule outvthe battery first. I 
> was,taught to always,look for the,simplest issue first.
> 
> Dwight Giles Jr.
> Wickford RI
> 
> On Feb 24, 2018 3:20 PM, "Dan Penoff via Mercedes" <mercedes@okiebenz.com 
> <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>> wrote:
> Started out adjusting the trunk snubbers I put on the other night so you 
> don’t have to slam the trunk lid to get it to latch.  Works nice now.
> 
> Adjusted the throttle linkage per spec to make sure all of that was in order.
> 
> Put a new mast on the antenna, although I’m a bit befuddled about the 
> antenna.  As long as it’s hooked up to the radio, it’s up regardless of what 
> the radio is doing or if the key or radio is on or not.  The only thing that 
> makes it retract is if you disconnect it at the radio, not the antenna.  
> Weird.  If anyone has any insight into what this might be, I’m all ears.
> 
> Ran a scan with the HHT emulator in the C3 and found the same codes, nothing 
> new.  Noticed something that might be important, however.  After running 
> several tests I started to lose connectivity with the various modules.  I 
> checked battery voltage and it was below 12V.  Hmm.  The battery that’s in 
> the car has full cells, but it’s marked as a “second” with no other 
> identifying markings.  No manufacturer, date, nothing.
> 
> I keep a spare Group 49 MB battery on the tender at all times, so I took it 
> off the tender and put the charger to it.  Within a couple of minutes it was 
> above 14V.  I’m going to drop it in later today and see what happens.  This 
> could be interesting, as so many things in these cars can go haywire with low 
> voltage.  If the battery is kaput it could be dragging the alternator down as 
> well.
> 
> Got the @#$% O2 sensor out.  Guess three days of Kroil soaking did the job.  
> That and a ratchet with a three foot cheater bar on it.  I dropped the 
> exhaust as far as I could by pulling all of the “O” rubbers off and let it 
> sit on a jackstand so it wouldn’t stress the pipes upstream.  That gave me a 
> lot more clearance to get at the sensor, not to mention I had a six point 
> socket that I could get on it with enough clearance to get a ratchet on.
> 
> Break time now and after I’m done I’ll go out and put the new O2 sensor in 
> and drop in the spare battery.
> 
> Wouldn’t it be a hoot if the only problem the car had was a bum battery?  I 
> would be pleased.
> 
> -D
> 
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