This post from one of the forums is exactly what is going on now that I
cleaned up the EGR valve and got that sorted. Looks like a GPectomy is
in order, or at least test them and the relay before I tear into them
all. Max you said you had the stuff to deal with it?
First time starting after the manifold/EGR work took a bit of cranking,
but then it has started fine since. So either at the beginning it was
sorta dry from sitting, or the GPs weren't all putting out. it did
belch lots of smoke too, FWIW. But it will start and run now so not a
huge issue at the moment.
I am getting the following errors.
P0380---faulty glow plug relay
P1369---faulty glow plug
My questions is are both bad or is one causing the other? Each morning
the glow plug light functions properly for the first start but after
that it give the error each time. I hate to spend the money on a relay
if the plugs are the problem but I also hate to change the plugs if its
just the relay. Is there any way to know which it is or if it is both?
Would really like to fix this before winter sets in.
I have been down this road several times with my 99 E300-TD and, to my
mind, the only solution is to do whatever is necessary to prevent future
occurences. This is a very expensive, but necessary, maintenance item.
Approximately each 100k km I have experienced these symptoms and have
concluded that one or more glow plug is faulty. Given the labour to
remove and replace the glow plugs, I change all six plugs, even though
only one or two have failed. On the last visit, at @ 300k km, the relay
was found to be "intermittent" and was also changed. This is about a
$1000 proposition but, to my mind, cheaper that the 3-4 major tune ups
that an equivalent gasoline engine would have required during the same
That is why I would check the resistance of the individual glow plugs
first! If they check out, then test the relay.
At first glance I can't see how the glow plug fault would fault the
relay. The relay is either on for a period of time and passes voltage
then off or it's always off or always on, both of the later create
faults. Good luck
the car computer can sense something wrong with the circuit, but can not
pinpoint the bad item. That what multimeter is for.
If the engine starts fine in the morning, that is indication at least
some plugs work, meaning the relay is good.
so if the relay tests fine it could be throwing the code only because of
the plugs or vice versa? just want to get an idea if i will probably
need to replace the relay no matter what or if there is a chance it is
ok and the plugs are just confusing it.
Those systems are fool proof. The relay is either open or closed,
voltage does not get to the glow plug(s) or regardless of key position
voltage is on and your battery drains.
You must test each glow plugs resistance, if they are low say 6-8 ohms
they are still good. Then test the voltage at the relay, with the key in
0 and 2. If you get 12V with key at zero------whoooooooooooooops. If you
get 12V after car runs for three minutes--------------whoooooooooooooops.
The relay is about 150 bucks.
On 3/7/18 6:20 PM, Buggered Benzmail wrote:
It’s still showing 2 codes and the GP light is on so maybe it does have bad
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