I repaired a steel case 4 speed years ago for a guy. It was run dry and
run on 90W hypoid. Neither are good for it. I replaced one gear and a
bunch of synchro rings and some bearings. It is pretty straightforward
inside. Just keep everything in order of disassembly, and watch
especially for the shims. Without the shims, the shaft can slide on the
bearings. even if you replace bearings, you should not need to check or
change shims.
As previously posited, it could just be the shift arm has come loose.
Whether you swap or fix, you will have to R&R. So, the fastest way
back to the road is to swap it out, then fix it for a spare, or to
replace in the donor.
It was a toploader, topshifter, so pretty much like a 4 or 5 spd
toploader truck trans, only smaller, and the shift mechanism is a bit
different.
It sounds like yours is a side shift, but still, it should be
straightforward.
fmiser via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
March 11, 2018 at 3:53 PM
I've got troubles with a manual 4-speed in a 240D.
The 1-2 shift arm is _really_ sloppy - and it's in the
transmission NOT the external linkages.
It happened suddenly. All was well, stopped to back into a
parking spot and the shift lever got into the neutral gate but the
transmission was still in 2nd. From underneath I moved the 1-2
linkage into neutral to match the shifter. That meant I could
drive the car home.
Once back at the house I checked the linkage bushings because I
presumed that's where the problem was. It's not. So I had a
helper move the shifter while I looked and it's clearly inside the
transmission. Ugh.
Right now it is so loose that the shifter runs into the dash
before the transmission gets into 1st - or 1st is completely
missing. To get from 2nd to neutral the shifter has to be moved
as far forward as 1st is supposed to be (which is past the
shifters neutral gate) to get out of 2nd, then move the shifter
aft to line it up with the neutral gate.
So any of you have experience inside the 4-speed manual? Or have
a manual for it?
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