> No, the Klima was NOT told to turn the a/c on.  Pin 10 at the Klima 
> mount read open on the Ohm meter.  I pulled the ACC and it's WAYYYY 
> different from the

I think that SDL has the refrigerant safety switch in that line.
Often it's the last thing on the way to the compressor, but I think
in that car it's in the 'signal' rather than the 'power' path.

> 123s that I'm familiar with.  How do you get these buggers appart and 
> what are the normal failure modes?  I can see several caps on the 
> bottom circuit board, so I'm guessing that it's similar to the cruise 
> amp repair?  Or should I

Pretty similar.  It has a processor in it, and a whole buncha
components.  But the switches are still prone to connection cracking.
I don't recall specific details about how to open it, it's got a
bunch of clamshell snaps, etc.

>  "test" this unit before attempting repair?

Almost always, in the absence of definitive symptoms.

> OK, test results are all normal except for the following:
> Sensor Ground test, Pin 8 (coolant temp)=open
> Vacuum flaps, pin 8 (short DEF Flap)=1k ohms

The coolant sensor may be unplugged, which ought to only
prevent the system from heating unless you jump-start it
by punching DEF first.  I don't think it affects the AC.

> Maybe I have a bad (hopefully unplugged) coolant sensor.
> What does the vacuum flap reading mean?

It means the short DEF flap probably doesn't do what it's
supposed to, which means that your defroster duct is never
fully closed.  So you lose some AC to the windshield.  (If
it was working.)  Broken connection, or burned out solenoid
in the vacuum valve.  Or, possibly, I've got the reference
point for that one wrong.

Keep in mind that I made that checklist from poring over
the car's schematic, and not all of it has been verified
by actually doing it.  I was refining that checklist when
I got employment again, and basically dropped it.

-- Jim


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