It might...

I know that MAF disconnected will prevent start (no fuel). Spark should
still happen. It would also throw a CEL.

Ken Bogart
-----------------------------------------------------
96 Montego Blue FFS Coldside (His)
97 Black & Tan (Hers)
90 Crystal White (sons)
------------------------------------------------------
http://www.miatacare.com
http://www.cincimiata.com
http://www.bcchallenger.org
MiataMail.com list owner


On Fri, Mar 11, 2011 at 11:55 AM, Bell, Richard (GE Energy Services) <
[email protected]> wrote:

> Yes, I’ve had the MAF disconnected but it is now plugged back in. Is there
> a way to test it? I have a MAF from a 1999 spare in my garage, would that
> work as a substitute to test it?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Richard.
>
>
>
> *From:* [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] *On Behalf Of *Ken
> Bogart
> *Sent:* 11 March 2011 16:48
>
> *To:* Bell, Richard (GE Energy Services)
> *Cc:* Ray Ayala; [email protected]
>
> *Subject:* Re: Non-starting 2001 help needed
>
>
>
> When you had the cross over tube off, did you mess with the MAF connection
> (on top of air filter box)?
>
>
> Ken Bogart
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 96 Montego Blue FFS Coldside (His)
> 97 Black & Tan (Hers)
> 90 Crystal White (sons)
> ------------------------------------------------------
> http://www.miatacare.com
> http://www.cincimiata.com
> http://www.bcchallenger.org
> MiataMail.com list owner
>
> On Fri, Mar 11, 2011 at 11:11 AM, Bell, Richard (GE Energy Services) <
> [email protected]> wrote:
>
> OK, so I found out the wire colours I needed and testing the inj supply at
> the loom connector. I got a nice bright light with key ON when bulb was
> connected from the +12V side of injector wiring to ground. The bulb stayed
> bright during cranking and only dropped slightly in intensity. I did the
> same test using a multimeter and the voltage dropped from 12.6 to 9.9 during
> cranking. Is that significant?
>
>
>
> I had the crossover tube off the car to get access to the loom connector
> and with key ON, I could hear a high pitch hum coming from the IAC on
> throttle body, is that significant?
>
>
>
> I also tried bypassing the main EGI relay with a big paperclip and that
> made no difference.
>
>
>
> I pulled the carpet up to see the footplate where the ECU is located and it
> still has the snap-off dome nut heads so no-one has ever been in tampering
> with anything in there.
>
>
>
> I’m still curious as to what the various relays are under the dashboard. I
> found this picture, It’s for a right hand drive car like mine.
>
>
>
> http://www.555subaru.co.uk/Dsc01949-1.jpg
>
>
>
> It shows the fuel pump relay on the far left, the immobilzer unit above and
> to the right of that, then the door lock control module further right
> (opposite side of the brake pedal brackets to the fuel pump relay). But then
> further to the right are about 5 other relays which I have no idea about. I
> do know that at least one of them is operating and then going off a second
> or two after cranking stops. Can anyone shed any light on these or point me
> in the direction of a set of 2001 wiring diagrams?
>
>
>
> How likely is it that the ECU is bad, is it a common fault? And if that is
> the problem, can a used ECU from another car be swapped in? I know someone
> breaking a 2004 that might be a good donor for parts.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Rich
>
>
>
> *From:* Bell, Richard (GE Energy Services)
> *Sent:* 11 March 2011 13:39
> *To:* 'Ray Ayala'; [email protected]
>
>
> *Subject:* RE: Non-starting 2001 help needed
>
>
>
> I can’t get access to the injector connectors, looks like would need to
> remove the inlet manifold to get to them. However, I can get to the loom
> connector at the front near the TB.
>
>
>
> Can someone give me the wire colour details for the injector wires at this
> connector so that I can make this test?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Rich
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Ray Ayala [mailto:[email protected]]
>
> *Sent:* 11 March 2011 05:21
>
> *To:* Bell, Richard (GE Energy Services); [email protected]
>
>
> *Subject:* Re: Non-starting 2001 help needed
>
>
>
> Pull off one of the injector connectors and measure the voltage on the two
> contacts, one at a time, relative to engine block ground.  One of the
> contacts should have 12v on it when the key switch is on.  If neither one
> does then the most likely culprit is blown contacts in the main ign relay,
> but could possibly also be wiring to the relay (think fusible link wiring)
> or the fuse.  If one side of the connector does have +12v power, connect a
> 12v light bulb (a big incandescent bulb such as is used for older non-LED
> brake lights) between ground and that 12v contact and watch to see if the
> voltage on the +12v contact stays at 12v (with the bulb lit brightly) or
> drops substantially lower.  If it drops then there is a wiring or relay
> problem with that +12v source.  If it doesn't drop then the ECU is not
> driving the injectors when you crank the engine and you're back where you
> started.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> *From:* Bell, Richard (GE Energy Services) <[email protected]>
>
> *To:* [email protected]
>
> *Sent:* Thursday, March 10, 2011 10:02 AM
>
> *Subject:* RE: Non-starting 2001 help needed
>
>
>
> I’ve just checked the following:
>
>
>
> Cams turn when cranking – they do
>
> All fuses inside car – all good
>
> All fuses under hood – all good
>
> Main EGI relay – Seems ok, I can feel it clicking as I turn key to on
>
> Main engine earth strap intact and good low resistance reading between
> engine and chassis
>
> With key on checked power to Cam sensor and coils – all good
>
> Checked earth to cam sensor and coils – all good
>
>
>
> Going to borrow a spare Cam sensor and fault code reader tonight and see if
> that shows anything.
>
>
>
> Rich
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Bell, Richard (GE Energy Services)
> *Sent:* 10 March 2011 16:23
> *To:* 'Bill Cardell'; [email protected]
> *Subject:* RE: Non-starting 2001 help needed
>
>
>
> I’ll do another check for broken wires and good earths etc. I was working
> on the car whilst the battery was charging up. It had an aftermarket remote
> central locking kit fitted that was not working (power locking via key was
> still working). I traced the fault to a bad ground under the dash. The only
> connection other that power and earth was a connection to the purple wire
> input to the OEM power door lock module.  I have since completely removed
> the aftermarket kit just in case but it has made no difference.
>
>
>
> I also removed an aftermarket header and exhaust and replaced it with the
> standard and had to disconnect the air box etc. to get access. I’ve gone
> over these connections 2 or 3 times to see if they are all good.
>
>
>
> I’ll check the cams are turning tonight.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Rich
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Bill Cardell [mailto:[email protected]]
> *Sent:* 10 March 2011 15:30
> *To:* Bell, Richard (GE Energy Services); Ken Bogart;
> [email protected]
> *Subject:* RE: Non-starting 2001 help needed
>
>
>
> broken wires, loose connectors, non rotating cams? And recent
> "improvements"? Always look where you last worked.
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* Bell, Richard (GE Energy Services) [mailto:[email protected]]
> *Sent:* Thu 3/10/2011 8:09 AM
> *To:* Bill Cardell; Ken Bogart; [email protected]
> *Subject:* RE: Non-starting 2001 help needed
>
> Apart from cam sensor, crank sensor and immobilizer are there any other
> components feeding info to the ECU that might prevent it from firing the
> injectors?
>
>
>
> The first two look relatively easy to check, I’ve no idea how I would
> troubleshoot an immobilizer issue?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Rich
>
>
>
> *From:* Bill Cardell [mailto:[email protected]]
> *Sent:* 10 March 2011 14:50
> *To:* Bell, Richard (GE Energy Services); Ken Bogart;
> [email protected]
> *Subject:* RE: Non-starting 2001 help needed
>
>
>
> You're not necessarily cutting *power* to the injectors-they are turned
> on/off by switched ground from the ecu.
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* [email protected] on behalf of Bell, Richard (GE
> Energy Services)
> *Sent:* Thu 3/10/2011 4:55 AM
> *To:* Ken Bogart; [email protected]
> *Subject:* RE: Non-starting 2001 help needed
>
> Battery charged up to 12.6V and cranked well so think that is OK. I will
> check for cam belt today.
>
>
>
> I’m just wondering what could cut power to the fuel injectors but still
> allow the fuel pump to run?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Rich
>
>
>
> *From:* [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] *On Behalf Of *Ken
> Bogart
> *Sent:* 10 March 2011 11:43
> *To:* Bell, Richard (GE Energy Services)
> *Cc:* [email protected]
> *Subject:* Re: Non-starting 2001 help needed
>
>
>
> Could be weak battery... but sounds like a classic broken timing belt. Can
> you see the cam turning through the oil fill hole?
>
>
>
> Probably not, but simple to check for.
>
>
> Ken Bogart
> -----------------------------------------------------
> 96 Montego Blue FFS Coldside (His)
> 97 Black & Tan (Hers)
> 90 Crystal White (sons)
> ------------------------------------------------------
> http://www.miatacare.com
> http://www.cincimiata.com
> http://www.bcchallenger.org
> MiataMail.com list owner
>
> On Thu, Mar 10, 2011 at 4:23 AM, Bell, Richard (GE Energy Services) <
> [email protected]> wrote:
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> I wonder if anyone can shed some light on my issue as I'm getting
> nowhere at the moment. Car is a late 2001 and was running fine before
> sitting for a week. Battery wasn't great and went flat, however, I
> managed to get it back to full charge. Car cranks fine but refuses to
> fire. After cranking, I pulled a plug and it was completely dry and
> there is no spark when cranking with the plug against the cam cover.
> However, I do hear the fuel pump run for about 0.5 seconds after I stop
> cranking. I have no CEL and no fault codes logged. There is no key
> warning light on to suggest immobiliser issue.
>
> Can anyone suggest any possible causes? I'm going to borrow a crank and
> cam sensor to see if they are causing issues as I read sometimes they
> don't cause fault codes. But other than that, what else can I check? Can
> someone point me in the right direction of some wiring diagrams for a
> 2001?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Rich
> _______________________________________________
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>
>
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>
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