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Raj






-----Original Message-----
From: Bell, Richard (GE Energy Services) (GE Energy Services) 
<[email protected]>
To: Ray Ayala <[email protected]>; miatapower <[email protected]>
Sent: Sun, Mar 13, 2011 12:06 am
Subject: RE: Non-starting 2001 help needed



OK, so I found out the wire colours I needed and testing the inj supply at the 
loom connector. I got a nice bright light with key ON when bulb was connected 
from the +12V side of injector wiring to ground. The bulb stayed bright during 
cranking and only dropped slightly in intensity. I did the same test using a 
multimeter and the voltage dropped from 12.6 to 9.9 during cranking. Is that 
significant?
 
I had the crossover tube off the car to get access to the loom connector and 
with key ON, I could hear a high pitch hum coming from the IAC on throttle 
body, is that significant?
 
I also tried bypassing the main EGI relay with a big paperclip and that made no 
difference.
 
I pulled the carpet up to see the footplate where the ECU is located and it 
still has the snap-off dome nut heads so no-one has ever been in tampering with 
anything in there.
 
I’m still curious as to what the various relays are under the dashboard. I 
found this picture, It’s for a right hand drive car like mine. 
 
http://www.555subaru.co.uk/Dsc01949-1.jpg
 
It shows the fuel pump relay on the far left, the immobilzer unit above and to 
the right of that, then the door lock control module further right (opposite 
side of the brake pedal brackets to the fuel pump relay). But then further to 
the right are about 5 other relays which I have no idea about. I do know that 
at least one of them is operating and then going off a second or two after 
cranking stops. Can anyone shed any light on these or point me in the direction 
of a set of 2001 wiring diagrams?
 
How likely is it that the ECU is bad, is it a common fault? And if that is the 
problem, can a used ECU from another car be swapped in? I know someone breaking 
a 2004 that might be a good donor for parts.
 
Thanks,
Rich
 

From: Bell, Richard (GE Energy Services) 
Sent: 11 March 2011 13:39
To: 'Ray Ayala'; [email protected]
Subject: RE: Non-starting 2001 help needed

 
I can’t get access to the injector connectors, looks like would need to remove 
the inlet manifold to get to them. However, I can get to the loom connector at 
the front near the TB. 
 
Can someone give me the wire colour details for the injector wires at this 
connector so that I can make this test?
 
Thanks,
Rich
 
 

From: Ray Ayala [mailto:[email protected]] 
Sent: 11 March 2011 05:21
To: Bell, Richard (GE Energy Services); [email protected]
Subject: Re: Non-starting 2001 help needed

 

Pull off one of the injector connectors and measure the voltage on the two 
contacts, one at a time, relative to engine block ground.  One of the contacts 
should have 12v on it when the key switch is on.  If neither one does then the 
most likely culprit is blown contacts in the main ign relay, but could possibly 
also be wiring to the relay (think fusible link wiring) or the fuse.  If one 
side of the connector does have +12v power, connect a 12v light bulb (a big 
incandescent bulb such as is used for older non-LED brake lights) between 
ground and that 12v contact and watch to see if the voltage on the +12v contact 
stays at 12v (with the bulb lit brightly) or drops substantially lower.  If it 
drops then there is a wiring or relay problem with that +12v source.  If it 
doesn't drop then the ECU is not driving the injectors when you crank the 
engine and you're back where you started.


----- Original Message ----- 

From: Bell, Richard (GE Energy Services) 

To: [email protected] 

Sent: Thursday, March 10, 2011 10:02 AM

Subject: RE: Non-starting 2001 help needed

 

I’ve just checked the following:
 
Cams turn when cranking – they do
All fuses inside car – all good
All fuses under hood – all good
Main EGI relay – Seems ok, I can feel it clicking as I turn key to on
Main engine earth strap intact and good low resistance reading between engine 
and chassis
With key on checked power to Cam sensor and coils – all good
Checked earth to cam sensor and coils – all good
 
Going to borrow a spare Cam sensor and fault code reader tonight and see if 
that shows anything.
 
Rich
 
 

From: Bell, Richard (GE Energy Services) 
Sent: 10 March 2011 16:23
To: 'Bill Cardell'; [email protected]
Subject: RE: Non-starting 2001 help needed

 
I’ll do another check for broken wires and good earths etc. I was working on 
the car whilst the battery was charging up. It had an aftermarket remote 
central locking kit fitted that was not working (power locking via key was 
still working). I traced the fault to a bad ground under the dash. The only 
connection other that power and earth was a connection to the purple wire input 
to the OEM power door lock module.  I have since completely removed the 
aftermarket kit just in case but it has made no difference.
 
I also removed an aftermarket header and exhaust and replaced it with the 
standard and had to disconnect the air box etc. to get access. I’ve gone over 
these connections 2 or 3 times to see if they are all good.
 
I’ll check the cams are turning tonight.
 
Thanks,
Rich
 
 

From: Bill Cardell [mailto:[email protected]] 
Sent: 10 March 2011 15:30
To: Bell, Richard (GE Energy Services); Ken Bogart; [email protected]
Subject: RE: Non-starting 2001 help needed

 

broken wires, loose connectors, non rotating cams? And recent "improvements"? 
Always look where you last worked.


 

From: Bell, Richard (GE Energy Services) [mailto:[email protected]]
Sent: Thu 3/10/2011 8:09 AM
To: Bill Cardell; Ken Bogart; [email protected]
Subject: RE: Non-starting 2001 help needed

Apart from cam sensor, crank sensor and immobilizer are there any other 
components feeding info to the ECU that might prevent it from firing the 
injectors?
 
The first two look relatively easy to check, I’ve no idea how I would 
troubleshoot an immobilizer issue?
 
Thanks,
Rich
 

From: Bill Cardell [mailto:[email protected]] 
Sent: 10 March 2011 14:50
To: Bell, Richard (GE Energy Services); Ken Bogart; [email protected]
Subject: RE: Non-starting 2001 help needed

 

You're not necessarily cutting *power* to the injectors-they are turned on/off 
by switched ground from the ecu.


 

From: [email protected] on behalf of Bell, Richard (GE Energy 
Services)
Sent: Thu 3/10/2011 4:55 AM
To: Ken Bogart; [email protected]
Subject: RE: Non-starting 2001 help needed

Battery charged up to 12.6V and cranked well so think that is OK. I will check 
for cam belt today.
 
I’m just wondering what could cut power to the fuel injectors but still allow 
the fuel pump to run?
 
Thanks,
Rich
 
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Ken Bogart
Sent: 10 March 2011 11:43
To: Bell, Richard (GE Energy Services)
Cc: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Non-starting 2001 help needed
 
Could be weak battery... but sounds like a classic broken timing belt. Can you 
see the cam turning through the oil fill hole?

 

Probably not, but simple to check for. 


Ken Bogart
-----------------------------------------------------
96 Montego Blue FFS Coldside (His)
97 Black & Tan (Hers)
90 Crystal White (sons)
------------------------------------------------------
http://www.miatacare.com
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http://www.bcchallenger.org
MiataMail.com list owner 

On Thu, Mar 10, 2011 at 4:23 AM, Bell, Richard (GE Energy Services) 
<[email protected]> wrote:
Hi Folks,

I wonder if anyone can shed some light on my issue as I'm getting
nowhere at the moment. Car is a late 2001 and was running fine before
sitting for a week. Battery wasn't great and went flat, however, I
managed to get it back to full charge. Car cranks fine but refuses to
fire. After cranking, I pulled a plug and it was completely dry and
there is no spark when cranking with the plug against the cam cover.
However, I do hear the fuel pump run for about 0.5 seconds after I stop
cranking. I have no CEL and no fault codes logged. There is no key
warning light on to suggest immobiliser issue.

Can anyone suggest any possible causes? I'm going to borrow a crank and
cam sensor to see if they are causing issues as I read sometimes they
don't cause fault codes. But other than that, what else can I check? Can
someone point me in the right direction of some wiring diagrams for a
2001?

Thanks in advance,
Rich
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