Crank and Cam TimingIf the motor doesn’t run properly while the +10 deg setup 
mode is engaged with the engine at normal operating temperature, the idle air 
adjustment probably needs to be corrected.  That setup mode both holds the 
timing at +10 and holds the idle air at the target % opening for warm idle.  
Adding 12 deg to the timing zones is neither necessary nor appropriate if the 
cam belt is installed properly and the CAS is adjusted correctly.  And it’s not 
a good temporary work-around because the software’s timing range is limited to 
the normal range of operation and cannot reach 12 deg higher ... or lower ...  
than the normal extremes.   Use a mechanical TDS sensor in a spark plug hole to 
determine what you should be seeing on the crank pulley at +10 and adjust the 
CAS accordingly.

From: Glenn Johnson 
Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2012 9:38 AM
To: [email protected] 
Subject: Crank and Cam Timing

Hi folks, 

I can't get my head around this one so am hoping your collective wisdom will 
put me straight. 

I need to do a key way fix on my crank, but whilst I get the parts and time 
together I'm trying to work out whether I have an immediate problem or not…

1. I recently fitted a new water pump and when I set the cam timing back up the 
crank pulley was approx 12 degrees off due to the key way failure (I didn't 
realise at the time).

2. If I put my Link into +10 deg set up mode and check the base time, I've got 
the +10 mark at about +22 degrees and the TDC mark at +12 degrees.  The car 
very nearly stalls when put into this mode.

3. Do I now just need to add 12 degrees of advance to all the Link ignition 
zones to in effect be back at normal timing?

I realise this is not a permanent fix, but I'm trying to make the car drivable 
for a few weeks until I've got the key way repaired and everything set back up 
as it's supposed to be.  It makes my head hurt thinking about this, but this is 
what I think I've got:

When I previously set up the timing, the crank wasn't at TDC, but rather 12 
degrees AFTER TDC.  So both the intake and exhaust cams are in effect retarded 
12 degrees.  Assuming the CAS on the exhaust CAM is the Link's view of the 
ignition timing, I can get the ignition timing back to normal by adding 12 
degrees in to all the Link ignition zones...

Thanks in advance, 

Glenn 
'97 FM Link 






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