Crank and Cam TimingNo ... and it sounds like the CAS is set correctly per item 2 in your original post. I suspect that it very nearly stalls in the +10 setup mode because you’re not getting sufficient idle air via the adjustment screw.
From: Glenn Johnson Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2012 12:09 PM To: 'Ray' ; [email protected] Subject: RE: Crank and Cam Timing Hi Ray, I have verified through the spark plug hole that TDC on #1 shows as 12 degrees BTDC on the crank pulley against the timing scale, and when putting the the Link in +10 degree mode 12 degrees BTDC is where the TDC mark shows under the strobe. Are you suggesting rotating the CAS so that the TDC pulley mark is at the TDC on the timing scale under +10 degree mode? I did try this a few months back and couldn't get more than a couple of degrees of rotation from the CAS - is it capable of adjusting this much and how force is safe to apply? Thanks, Glenn -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Ray [mailto:[email protected]] Sent: 06 June 2012 04:59 To: Glenn Johnson; [email protected] Subject: Re: Crank and Cam Timing If the motor doesn’t run properly while the +10 deg setup mode is engaged with the engine at normal operating temperature, the idle air adjustment probably needs to be corrected. That setup mode both holds the timing at +10 and holds the idle air at the target % opening for warm idle. Adding 12 deg to the timing zones is neither necessary nor appropriate if the cam belt is installed properly and the CAS is adjusted correctly. And it’s not a good temporary work-around because the software’s timing range is limited to the normal range of operation and cannot reach 12 deg higher ... or lower ... than the normal extremes. Use a mechanical TDS sensor in a spark plug hole to determine what you should be seeing on the crank pulley at +10 and adjust the CAS accordingly. From: Glenn Johnson Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2012 9:38 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Crank and Cam Timing Hi folks, I can't get my head around this one so am hoping your collective wisdom will put me straight. I need to do a key way fix on my crank, but whilst I get the parts and time together I'm trying to work out whether I have an immediate problem or not… 1. I recently fitted a new water pump and when I set the cam timing back up the crank pulley was approx 12 degrees off due to the key way failure (I didn't realise at the time). 2. If I put my Link into +10 deg set up mode and check the base time, I've got the +10 mark at about +22 degrees and the TDC mark at +12 degrees. The car very nearly stalls when put into this mode. 3. Do I now just need to add 12 degrees of advance to all the Link ignition zones to in effect be back at normal timing? I realise this is not a permanent fix, but I'm trying to make the car drivable for a few weeks until I've got the key way repaired and everything set back up as it's supposed to be. It makes my head hurt thinking about this, but this is what I think I've got: When I previously set up the timing, the crank wasn't at TDC, but rather 12 degrees AFTER TDC. So both the intake and exhaust cams are in effect retarded 12 degrees. Assuming the CAS on the exhaust CAM is the Link's view of the ignition timing, I can get the ignition timing back to normal by adding 12 degrees in to all the Link ignition zones... Thanks in advance, Glenn '97 FM Link -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Miatapower mailing list [email protected] http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower
_______________________________________________ Miatapower mailing list [email protected] http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower
