Hi Ray,
 
I have verified through the spark plug hole that TDC on #1 shows as 12
degrees BTDC on the crank pulley against the timing scale, and when putting
the the Link in +10 degree mode 12 degrees BTDC is where the TDC mark shows
under the strobe.
 
Are you suggesting rotating the CAS so that the TDC pulley mark is at the
TDC on the timing scale under +10 degree mode?  I did try this a few months
back and couldn't get more than a couple of degrees of rotation from the CAS
- is it capable of adjusting this much and how force is safe to apply?
 
Thanks,

Glenn

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From: Ray [mailto:[email protected]] 
Sent: 06 June 2012 04:59
To: Glenn Johnson; [email protected]
Subject: Re: Crank and Cam Timing


If the motor doesn't run properly while the +10 deg setup mode is engaged
with the engine at normal operating temperature, the idle air adjustment
probably needs to be corrected.  That setup mode both holds the timing at
+10 and holds the idle air at the target % opening for warm idle.  Adding 12
deg to the timing zones is neither necessary nor appropriate if the cam belt
is installed properly and the CAS is adjusted correctly.  And it's not a
good temporary work-around because the software's timing range is limited to
the normal range of operation and cannot reach 12 deg higher ... or lower
...  than the normal extremes.   Use a mechanical TDS sensor in a spark plug
hole to determine what you should be seeing on the crank pulley at +10 and
adjust the CAS accordingly.
 
From: Glenn Johnson <mailto:[email protected]>  
Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2012 9:38 AM
To: [email protected] 
Subject: Crank and Cam Timing
 

Hi folks, 

I can't get my head around this one so am hoping your collective wisdom will
put me straight. 

I need to do a key way fix on my crank, but whilst I get the parts and time
together I'm trying to work out whether I have an immediate problem or not.

1. I recently fitted a new water pump and when I set the cam timing back up
the crank pulley was approx 12 degrees off due to the key way failure (I
didn't realise at the time).

2. If I put my Link into +10 deg set up mode and check the base time, I've
got the +10 mark at about +22 degrees and the TDC mark at +12 degrees.  The
car very nearly stalls when put into this mode.

3. Do I now just need to add 12 degrees of advance to all the Link ignition
zones to in effect be back at normal timing?

I realise this is not a permanent fix, but I'm trying to make the car
drivable for a few weeks until I've got the key way repaired and everything
set back up as it's supposed to be.  It makes my head hurt thinking about
this, but this is what I think I've got:

When I previously set up the timing, the crank wasn't at TDC, but rather 12
degrees AFTER TDC.  So both the intake and exhaust cams are in effect
retarded 12 degrees.  Assuming the CAS on the exhaust CAM is the Link's view
of the ignition timing, I can get the ignition timing back to normal by
adding 12 degrees in to all the Link ignition zones...

Thanks in advance, 

Glenn 
'97 FM Link 




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