I had a K&N filter for a while until it gummed up my IAC. You're not running an oil soaked air filter, are you ? Just a thought.
On Jun 6, 2012, at 6:09 PM, "Ray" <[email protected]> wrote: > No ... and it sounds like the CAS is set correctly per item 2 in your > original post. I suspect that it very nearly stalls in the +10 setup mode > because you’re not getting sufficient idle air via the adjustment screw. > > From: Glenn Johnson > Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2012 12:09 PM > To: 'Ray' ; [email protected] > Subject: RE: Crank and Cam Timing > > Hi Ray, > > I have verified through the spark plug hole that TDC on #1 shows as 12 > degrees BTDC on the crank pulley against the timing scale, and when putting > the the Link in +10 degree mode 12 degrees BTDC is where the TDC mark shows > under the strobe. > > Are you suggesting rotating the CAS so that the TDC pulley mark is at the TDC > on the timing scale under +10 degree mode? I did try this a few months back > and couldn't get more than a couple of degrees of rotation from the CAS - is > it capable of adjusting this much and how force is safe to apply? > > Thanks, > > Glenn > > From: Ray [mailto:[email protected]] > Sent: 06 June 2012 04:59 > To: Glenn Johnson; [email protected] > Subject: Re: Crank and Cam Timing > > If the motor doesn’t run properly while the +10 deg setup mode is engaged > with the engine at normal operating temperature, the idle air adjustment > probably needs to be corrected. That setup mode both holds the timing at +10 > and holds the idle air at the target % opening for warm idle. Adding 12 deg > to the timing zones is neither necessary nor appropriate if the cam belt is > installed properly and the CAS is adjusted correctly. And it’s not a good > temporary work-around because the software’s timing range is limited to the > normal range of operation and cannot reach 12 deg higher ... or lower ... > than the normal extremes. Use a mechanical TDS sensor in a spark plug hole > to determine what you should be seeing on the crank pulley at +10 and adjust > the CAS accordingly. > > From: Glenn Johnson > Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2012 9:38 AM > To: [email protected] > Subject: Crank and Cam Timing > > Hi folks, > > I can't get my head around this one so am hoping your collective wisdom will > put me straight. > > I need to do a key way fix on my crank, but whilst I get the parts and time > together I'm trying to work out whether I have an immediate problem or not… > > 1. I recently fitted a new water pump and when I set the cam timing back up > the crank pulley was approx 12 degrees off due to the key way failure (I > didn't realise at the time). > > 2. If I put my Link into +10 deg set up mode and check the base time, I've > got the +10 mark at about +22 degrees and the TDC mark at +12 degrees. The > car very nearly stalls when put into this mode. > > 3. Do I now just need to add 12 degrees of advance to all the Link ignition > zones to in effect be back at normal timing? > > I realise this is not a permanent fix, but I'm trying to make the car > drivable for a few weeks until I've got the key way repaired and everything > set back up as it's supposed to be. It makes my head hurt thinking about > this, but this is what I think I've got: > > When I previously set up the timing, the crank wasn't at TDC, but rather 12 > degrees AFTER TDC. So both the intake and exhaust cams are in effect > retarded 12 degrees. Assuming the CAS on the exhaust CAM is the Link's view > of the ignition timing, I can get the ignition timing back to normal by > adding 12 degrees in to all the Link ignition zones... > > Thanks in advance, > > Glenn > '97 FM Link > > > > _______________________________________________ > Miatapower mailing list > [email protected] > http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower > _______________________________________________ > Miatapower mailing list > [email protected] > http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower
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