So, maybe I'll just go with the H&R/Bilstein combo. I want a nice height, but I'm not an Autox'er. I'm more into straight line performance.
But as far as what to replace. The list is: New control arms (new bushings already installed.) VR6 Strut bearings If I get the Cup Kit I have to get new bump stops (F&R) If I get the Bilstein/H&R combo then those come with it. Right? What about Trailing arm bushings and the like? This is all really new to me. Thanks for all the help. Steve ----- Original Message ----- From: "Williams, Chris (RSCH)" <[email protected]> To: "'Steve Ingels'" <[email protected]>; "'Oleg M. Smirnov'" <[email protected]>; <[email protected]> Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2001 7:10 AM Subject: RE: New suspension time. What to get? > Steve: > > Your car has two control arms (shaped like a capital "A"). They are in the front of your car, and locate the bottom of the front struts. Each of the bottom parts of the "A" has a bushing, the peak is where the ball joint connects. > > You'll need two new control arms with bushings (2 front/2rear) installed; > VR6 front strut bearings; > Cup Kit > > BTW, I've read some criticisms of the Cup Kit on the VWVortex-one didn't like the fact that you need to supply your own dust boots and bump stops for the front (for the rear too?). Another thought the 2" drop a bit too low. If it's handling you're after, the 2" drop may be too low. > > HTH, > > Chris Williams > > -----Original Message----- > From: Steve Ingels [SMTP:[email protected]] > Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2001 3:21 AM > To: Williams, Chris (RSCH); 'Oleg M. Smirnov'; [email protected] > Subject: Re: New suspension time. What to get? > > Now, I'm really new to this so bear with. > > What you're saying I have control arms in the front and rear (Like I said, I > don't know and I'm learning.) that would be easier to replace than mash new > bushings in. I'm cool with that. > > So I need 4 new control arms > VR6 front strut bearings > Cup Kit and I'm done? > > Did I miss something? > > Just got some extra cash and it's burning a hole. > > Steve > www.quickvws.com > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Williams, Chris (RSCH)" <[email protected]> > To: "'Oleg M. Smirnov'" <[email protected]>; <[email protected]>; > "'Steve Ingels'" <[email protected]> > Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2001 7:18 AM > Subject: RE: New suspension time. What to get? > > > > Steve: > > > > I would definitely replace the control arm bushings or have someone do it > for you. The rear bushings in my car went in three years. They flexed so > much that they caused vibrations in my steering wheel under acceleration and > changes in toe and caster under acceleration and braking. You can also buy > new control arms with the bushings already installed if you have doubts > about your ability to pull the old ones/press-in the new. About six weeks > ago, I pulled/pressed-in the bushings with little more than a big vise, a > dremel with a cutting wheel, and some "special tools" (a hole saw (to help > pull the front bushing) and an OE VR6 upper spring cap (to help press-in the > rear bushing). > > > > If you do one control arm at a time you should have no problems with the > subframe shifting. About three years ago, when I first contemplated > replacing my control arm bushings, I emailed Todd at AWE to ask him if it > could be done safely. He gave me a qualified "yes". Since then, I've done > the control arm bushings twice. One should always have concerns about > stripping the longer subframe bolts at the rear, but the subframe has three > other bolts to hold it so it should remain secure. > > > > The only way that I could imagine you'd have a problem > dropping/misaligning the subframe is if the bolts were loose to begin with. > If you have any doubts, why not torque them to spec before you begin the > job? > > > > HTH, > > > > Chris > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Oleg M. Smirnov [SMTP:[email protected]] > > Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2001 3:14 AM > > To: [email protected] > > Subject: Re: New suspension time. What to get? > > > > > Don't do the control arm bushings along with the suspension...do them > when > > > you have the motor out. This job is technically quite simple (remove > some > > > bolts, have bushings pressed in, replace control arms) but when *I* did > > > this (out in the street in october), I was unable to get the rear > subframe > > > bolts back in. While I had things apart, something shifted, and those > > > f-ing bolts would NOT go in. I kept having nightmares about screwing up > > > the threads on the nut embedded in the sheetmetal above the subframe. I > > > tried jacking up the engine/subframe and all sorts of other things, and > the > > > thing just wouldn't go back in. I literally spent an entire day trying > to > > > get the bolts back in. Eventually, I had it flat-bedded to a mechanic, > and > > > he finally got it back in by lifting the engine and tranny completely > off > > > the mounts and fiddling with the subframe. It wasn't a real fun > > > experience. YMMV. > > > > Ouch, Patrick, I wish this topic had come up a day earlier. I've just > spent > > most of yesterday screwing around with that damn rear subframe bolt... It > was > > the exact same experience: blood, sweat, tears, and nightmares about > stripped > > threads. What finally worked for me was dropping the car back onto its > > wheels, and bouncing on the front suspension for a bit. Then when I jacked > it > > back up, things had shifted into their assigned places, and the bolt went > > right in... Maybe I was just lucky. Guess I'll know for sure today, since > > I'm going back to do the other side -- wish me luck. > > > > Funnily enough, on an older A2, I was once replacing the complete > subframe, > > along with one control arm (as a result of jumping over a concrete block > that > > someone had forgotten in the middle of the road...), and I don't recollect > > ANY trouble at all with those bolts. Maybe because I'd had the engine > lifted > > then. > > > > Cheers, > > Oleg > > > > > > > > _____________ > > List Sponsor: http://www.netsville.com > > To remove yourself from this list, send mail to [email protected] > with 'unsubscribe a2_16v' in the body of your message > > See us on the web at http://www.a2-16v.com > > Visit the 16V Homepage at http://www.gti16v.org > > > > > > _____________ List Sponsor: http://www.netsville.com To remove yourself from this list, send mail to [email protected] with 'unsubscribe a2_16v' in the body of your message See us on the web at http://www.a2-16v.com Visit the 16V Homepage at http://www.gti16v.org
