On Oct 23, 2006, at 2:41 AM, [email protected] wrote:

Yeah I thought of that. It was exact, both marks facing each other. But what if the TT mark is off. I'll pull the
cover and check anyway. How do you pull the retaining caps?

There's two studs with nuts per cap. Just loosen the nuts starting with the end caps and moving towards the center. Loosen them a little at a time to avoid possibly tweaking the cams. Make sure you mark the caps as to location and direction, so you put them back in the same location/orientation. When you reassemble the cams/caps, use a little assembly lube on the cam journals. The Bentley has the torque specs and
order in which you tighten the caps.

One other thing, in re-checking the plugs both 1 and 4 are tan 2 and 3 are wet. The idle with 2 or 3
grounded hardly changes, 1 or 4 grounded it won't even start.

Are you using Motronic or CIS-E injection? Have you ever run a motor with the exact injection system you have now? Without knowing more, there's a lot of things that could be causing that.

--Holland
[email protected]



You don't say, but I assume you're talking about a 9A 2.0l 16V?  If

so, it sounds like you may have
the intake to exhaust cam index screwed up.  Moving the timing belt

up and back a tooth wouldn't
help that scenario.  To check, pull the valve cover (I know that's
a
pain because the intake has to go)
set the motor to TDC.  Now look at the cam sprockets at the
distributor end.  There should be a dimple
or hash mark on each gear, with the one on the intake at 9:00, or
at
the level of the valve cover mating
surface, and the exhaust mark at 3:00 or at the same level as the
intake mark.  There's a possibility that
the TT intake cam doesn't have the mark, in which case you either
have to match it up with a factory
intake and scribe a mark, or do the truly correct thing and get
yourself a degree wheel and set the cams
up the way all good engine builders do.  Oh, almost forgot to
mention, to correct the index if the marks
don't line up, you have to pull the cam retaining caps so you can
move the cam chain up or back on the
gears until everything lines up correctly.  It can bee a real pain
in
the ass, because you may think everything
is lined up right, but when you tighten the caps down, the marks
will
have moved out of alignment.  You kind
of have to interpolate where you need to put the chain on the gears

in order for things to come out right once
everything is tightened down.  Been there, done that.

On Oct 22, 2006, at 3:48 PM, [email protected] wrote:

The junkyard 2.0 w/new headgasket, TT Euro intake cam and a new
distributor and O2 sensor can rev (slowly) to 5k+, idles like
factory new and I can barely back out of my slightly uphill
driveway. What power it has comes on after 3k and under any load
it
justs pops and does nothing.
Changed out anything I could think of, coolant temp sensor,
plugs,
wires, injectors, ignition module, kock module. No vacuum leaks.
The only things I don't have 2 of are DPR, knock sensor and the O

sensor module. I did every test except the DPR since O don't have

that harness and am reluctant to hack the one on the car. Dropped

the timing belt back a tooth, then forward once now I back to 0.
Also the tachometer seems to show higher revs than what the
engine
sounds like. @ 3k the 1.8 made some noise the 2.0 is almost idle
quiet (like around 1.7krpm).
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Steve

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--Holland
[email protected]



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