I was hoping you could pop the sprocket off w/out pulling the cams... Other than a new O2 sensor I didn't touch any fuel delivery components until I started troubleshooting. I have a bad CIS-E injector and a bad Motronic injector line(melted it w/shop light) so I have a mixed bag of injectors. Now I'm using a spare airbox, plugs, wires, knock module, ignition module. Can't find my spare DPR, coil or O2 control module or I would have swapped them out as well. Did every electrical test except the DPR. One doubt I have is the tach reading higher than it should. I think this happened to me before. Anyway going to check compression and then probably open the valve cover. Steve
----- Original Message ----- From: Holland Phillips <[email protected]> Date: Monday, October 23, 2006 5:13 pm Subject: Re: [a2-16v-list] No power/low end on new 2.0 > > On Oct 23, 2006, at 2:41 AM, [email protected] wrote: > > > Yeah I thought of that. It was exact, both marks facing each > other. > > But what if the TT mark is off. I'll pull the > > cover and check anyway. How do you pull the retaining caps? > > There's two studs with nuts per cap. Just loosen the nuts starting > > with the end caps and moving towards > the center. Loosen them a little at a time to avoid possibly > tweaking the cams. Make sure you mark the > caps as to location and direction, so you put them back in the same > > location/orientation. When you reassemble > the cams/caps, use a little assembly lube on the cam journals. The > > Bentley has the torque specs and > order in which you tighten the caps. > > > One other thing, in re-checking the plugs both 1 and 4 are tan 2 > > and 3 are wet. The idle with 2 or 3 > > grounded hardly changes, 1 or 4 grounded it won't even start. > > Are you using Motronic or CIS-E injection? Have you ever run a > motor > with the exact injection system you have now? > Without knowing more, there's a lot of things that could be causing > > that. > > --Holland > [email protected] > > > > >> You don't say, but I assume you're talking about a 9A 2.0l 16V? If > >> > >> so, it sounds like you may have > >> the intake to exhaust cam index screwed up. Moving the timing belt > >> > >> up and back a tooth wouldn't > >> help that scenario. To check, pull the valve cover (I know that's > >> a > >> pain because the intake has to go) > >> set the motor to TDC. Now look at the cam sprockets at the > >> distributor end. There should be a dimple > >> or hash mark on each gear, with the one on the intake at 9:00, or > >> at > >> the level of the valve cover mating > >> surface, and the exhaust mark at 3:00 or at the same level as the > >> intake mark. There's a possibility that > >> the TT intake cam doesn't have the mark, in which case you either > >> have to match it up with a factory > >> intake and scribe a mark, or do the truly correct thing and get > >> yourself a degree wheel and set the cams > >> up the way all good engine builders do. Oh, almost forgot to > >> mention, to correct the index if the marks > >> don't line up, you have to pull the cam retaining caps so you can > >> move the cam chain up or back on the > >> gears until everything lines up correctly. It can bee a real pain > >> in > >> the ass, because you may think everything > >> is lined up right, but when you tighten the caps down, the marks > >> will > >> have moved out of alignment. You kind > >> of have to interpolate where you need to put the chain on the gears > >> > >> in order for things to come out right once > >> everything is tightened down. Been there, done that. > >> > >> On Oct 22, 2006, at 3:48 PM, [email protected] wrote: > >> > >>> The junkyard 2.0 w/new headgasket, TT Euro intake cam and a new > >>> distributor and O2 sensor can rev (slowly) to 5k+, idles like > >>> factory new and I can barely back out of my slightly uphill > >>> driveway. What power it has comes on after 3k and under any load > >> it > >>> justs pops and does nothing. > >>> Changed out anything I could think of, coolant temp sensor, > >> plugs, > >>> wires, injectors, ignition module, kock module. No vacuum leaks. > >>> The only things I don't have 2 of are DPR, knock sensor and the O > >> > >>> sensor module. I did every test except the DPR since O don't have > >> > >>> that harness and am reluctant to hack the one on the car. Dropped > >> > >>> the timing belt back a tooth, then forward once now I back to 0. > >>> Also the tachometer seems to show higher revs than what the > >> engine > >>> sounds like. @ 3k the 1.8 made some noise the 2.0 is almost idle > >>> quiet (like around 1.7krpm). > >>> Any suggestions? > >>> Thanks, > >>> Steve > >>> > >>> _______________________________________________ > >>> a2-16v-list mailing list > >>> [email protected] > >>> http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list > >>> For list archives, see listinfo link above. > >> > >> --Holland > >> [email protected] > >> > >> > >> > > _______________________________________________ > > a2-16v-list mailing list > > [email protected] > > http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list > > For list archives, see listinfo link above. > > >
