Yikes!  No orientation marks on the cams at all? At this point, I would
find a set of new or closely inspected by someone knowledgeable about cams
in general used cams, buy a new chain, and follow to the letter the
installation instructions contained in the Bentley manual. And get a new
timing belt and tensioner, just so you don't have to mess with the whole
cam thing anytime soon. You said you are in California. Where? I am in El
Cajon, and would be willing to help you out if you're close enough.

~Holland
On Feb 13, 2016 14:41, "damac2004" <[email protected]> wrote:

> i was tinkering more today and it seems they had these installed so the
> marks would line up on the cams.  if i go a tooth either way the marks
> touch when not parallel.
>
> what i noticed though is when trying to line up the cam pulley marks the
> exhaust cam slot is level with the head but again the timing between the
> cam gears is not perfect.
>
> i then messed around with turning engine over at crank bolt and noticed
> there is a little dead spot in the chain so it has the ability to load up?
>
> i took the cams out and can't find any markings on the aftermarket cams so
> i guess all bets are off.
>
> i found a thread that mentioned the #1 cam lobes as lining up toward
> center of cam caps with stock cams.  if i get my marks lined up on these
> cams the lobes at #1 do not quite match the same angle towards the middle
> of the head an using those studs as a marker.  so i guess one sits just a
> tad higher at that point than the other.  is this how aftermarket cams work
> or is it a bad sign that the heights are just a tad different?
>
> also does the chain sound too loose?  i see no markings on that part and
> see the shape of teeth stock vs. aftermarket are different.  should each
> have their own part number or can you swap between ok?
>
> i saw some instructions for aftermarket cam install that mentioned heat
> and press/mallet which made me also wonder about chain slack, mine just
> fall off.  not sure if thats how the stock setup is?
>
>
> i thought about just putting it back together.  and/or trying stock cams.
>  the chain now bothers me though since i have never seen another one of
> these motors up close.
>
>
> On Friday, February 12, 2016 at 3:52:22 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>
>> When I installed Schrick 260/276 cams in my car, after my first attempt,
>> the marks appeared to line up very closely, but not quite exact. I figured
>> they were close enough, but when I started the engine, I could tell
>> immediately that it wasn't running correctly. It didn't rev as freely as it
>> did before I messed with it. So I took it back apart, and removed the cam
>> retainer caps on one cam so I could move the drive gear one tooth, and
>> rechecked the alignment marks. They were then lined up exactly. Reassembled
>> everything and started the engine once again. Perfect! The engine revved
>> freely and more quickly than ever. I already had a lightened flywheel, and
>> a bunch of other mods done to the engine, and with the new cams, the car
>> was noticeably faster than it had ever been. Moral of the story is all
>> those alignment marks MUST
>> be exactly aligned, or all bets are off.
>>
>> ~Holland
>> On Feb 12, 2016 15:26, "damac2004" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> im in california, ugh!  i found out the cams are estas.
>>>
>>> this may sound like a dumb question but when i went to time the car with
>>> stock pulley i found that the front cam is a little off. it looks like if i
>>> made sure the cam marks lined up its one tooth off.  this car was running
>>> like this, i don't think any valves were contacting pistons.  im scared to
>>> touch it in that sense since it had an adjustable cam.
>>>
>>> i don't understand how these motors work, should the #1 lobes be
>>> pointing towards the middle at the same angle?  its hard to tell exactly
>>> but it seems if i turned the front cam to match the internal marks that the
>>> cam lobe might match the other cam.  to me right now it looks just a tad
>>> off.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Friday, February 5, 2016 at 2:12:10 PM UTC-8, Larry Velez wrote:
>>>>
>>>> What country are you in that you are so worried about passing smog?  In
>>>> the USA, most of these cars are now exempt.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -Larry
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> *From:* [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] *On
>>>> Behalf Of *damac2004
>>>> *Sent:* Thursday, February 4, 2016 9:43 PM
>>>> *To:* MK2-16v <[email protected]>
>>>> *Cc:* [email protected]
>>>> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> so are people saying native 2.0 heads can fit onto the 1.8 bottom end?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> is there any kind of clues on castings on the outside i can look for to
>>>> see what i have, and does anybody know if the stock cams 16v are the same
>>>> part number between 2 and 1.8 liter?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> i just tore into this car more and of course the techtronics chip with
>>>> adjustable cam gear, and under the valve cover are not vw cams.  i got
>>>> colored stripes on these parts but all i can find is some kind of emblem.
>>>>  i emailed them asking where part numbers are just in case its their parts.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> i don't know if this has an effect on smog but i just want to put the
>>>> car back stock.
>>>>
>>>> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 9:37:13 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>>>
>>>> The external differences between 1.8 and 2.0 16V heads and blocks are
>>>> very minimal. I don't recall the over hang you speak of, but I wouldn't be
>>>> concerned.
>>>>
>>>> ~Holland
>>>>
>>>> On Feb 2, 2016 09:28, "damac2004" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> hmmm, i am still not convinced and found a 1.8 oil pump in it.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> is there a problem with me going with the 2.0 im shaft/gear and its oil
>>>> pump?  if im reading right it can only help?  then i won't have to worry.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> the more i read im still not seeing how it can be a 2.0 bottom end with
>>>> the 1.8 intermediate shaft if things don't hit when running the engine.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> is it normal for the head on these motors to stick way out past the
>>>> front of the block where they meet?  im used to seeing that area flush on
>>>> mydiesel where mated.
>>>>
>>>> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 6:55:11 AM UTC-8, mgyip wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Sure sounds like a 2.0l 16v especially because of the 2 knock sensors
>>>> which were only present on the 91 and later cars - Digifunk for 8v and
>>>> Moronic for 16v.  I wouldn't necessarily throw TEPO (the evil previous
>>>> owner) under the bus though - Volkswagen was/is notorious for having a vast
>>>> spare parts bin that crossed model types and years, throwing together old
>>>> and new model parts when their supply was thin.  In 91-92, VW quality was,
>>>> um, not-so-good and their supply was the same.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Monday, February 1, 2016 5:51 PM, Holland Phillips <
>>>> [email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Well, it's definitely a 9A engine. Whatever else is going on with the
>>>> internals is a mystery. I would just buy all the replacement parts you need
>>>> for the 9A and be done with it.
>>>>
>>>> On Feb 1, 2016 14:30, damac2004 <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> 1.  yes there is an ecu and it has a techtronics chip in it that says
>>>> 16v 2.0
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 2.  i think it does have 2 knock sensors on the front of the block to
>>>> the left of the block breather fitting?  each one looks the same, one has a
>>>> bare wire the whole length, and each goes to its own wire harness clip.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 3.  this car is disabled on the driveway and im struggling to get it
>>>> higher for me to get underneath.  i was trying to feel around back there
>>>> from underneath looking up and all i can find on the drivers side lower
>>>> block is a big embossed A
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> i'm new to these cars so im scared its some kind of other engine.  this
>>>> still doesn't explain how this car was using the larger im shaft and
>>>> smaller oil pump gear?  there isn't a mark anywhere on those parts so
>>>> obviously they aren't hitting the guts of the engine.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 12:04:43 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Does it have a ECU mounted under the plastic tray at the base of the
>>>> windshield?  The tray covers the windshield wiper motor, and is held on by
>>>> some clips. If it does, it's probably a 9A. The 1.8 liter 16V doesn't
>>>> utilize an ECU.
>>>>
>>>> ~Holland
>>>>
>>>> On Feb 1, 2016 11:59, "damac2004" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> the chasis is a 1991 gti but i don't trust the previous owners after
>>>> having seen all the hack jobs.  for all i know another motor is in there :(
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> im trying to look on front of block and see these markings in the
>>>> picture i attached, down below that is the part number.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 8:30:48 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I don't recall you saying what year your car is. If it's a '91-'92 2.0
>>>> liter 16V, the engine designation is 9A.
>>>>
>>>> ~Holland
>>>>
>>>> On Jan 31, 2016 11:51 PM, "damac2004" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> is there some kind of decoder?  when i search google i come up with few
>>>> and differing answers.  i want to find out what engine i have so i can make
>>>> sure i get the right intermediate shaft and stock parts to get it smogged.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> the block says:  051 103 021
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> the head says:  *051103373*
>>>>
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