You said the key word - variables. Since you admit to not having much experience or knowledge in regards to these engines, I see two options for you at this point. Either take the car to a professional mechanic who has experience with the Mk 2 16V cars, or search for a good used 9A engine. Otherwise, you could spend an awful lot of time experimenting, while running the risk of doing more harm than good if you try the wrong thing. Beyond that, if you choose to continue on your own with what you've got, I would start verifying every part number of the engine assembly, beginning with the engine block and head casting. Something isn't right at a fairly basic level, since the engine used to run with non stock parts, but doesn't want to run correctly now that you've installed what you believe to be factory standard parts. I wish you luck!
~Holland On Feb 27, 2016 13:02, "damac2004" <damac2...@sbcglobal.net> wrote: > i finally got this car back together and of course its a mess. i put what > i was told was the stock chip, manifold, cams and throttle body back on the > car. > > verified all timing marks. circle on the flywheel as well as having a > dipstick on #1. stock cam gears with marks aligning and the stock cam gear > with marks aligning deck and cover. i put a new chain on and there was no > loading up of slack like the other setup. > > i'm still not sure of all the things the previous owners did but i put the > distributor back where it was. the car did not like this at all and i > could just barely tell it was trying to fire but sounds funny like air > escaping in the engine bay. the manual shows a baseline setting with the > notch on housing and the rotor so i tried that and no better. then i > started turning it to the right and was able to get it to start but it was > chugging and shaking the motor. while running i turned it all the way to > the right and it atleast stayed running but still loping with a little > engine shake. > > as soon as you push the pedal and take off the idle switch the car screams > up in rpms almost 2000 rpm. it sounded better and smoother but the pedal > wasn't doing anything and if i held it there a second or two later the rpms > dropped and the car dies. > > i still don't really know what i am doing here. what other variables > could be causing me such problems now? does the ecu need to be reset or > something after a chip change? could they have had different injectors > with the cams or messed with some kind of fueling settings? there is no > adjustments on this cars throttle body. > > i am tempted to now swap back to the other cams and how the car was setup > since it was running so good and i don't have a clue what i am doing. > > > On Saturday, February 13, 2016 at 4:57:06 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote: >> >> Yes, in a chain/gear system, any slack is bidirectional. In a system with >> a long chain and/or multiple size gears as in a bicycle, there may be some >> sort of tensioner, like the derailer on a 5 - 27 speed bicycle. In the case >> of our cars, the chain is so short, and the inertia caused by the rpm keeps >> the cam timing consistent. However, that chain will stretch over time, so >> on a high mileage engine, it's a good idea to replace the chain. As I >> recall, they aren't very expensive. But that was several years ago, and >> they were still readily available. >> >> ~Holland >> On Feb 13, 2016 16:40, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote: >> >>> half tooth off between the 2 cam gears? thats kind of where mine is at. >>> once i got the slack out its real close which has me wondering about the >>> tightness if it can bind up enough to send the marks off one way i assume >>> the slack is also present turning the other way. >>> >>> >>> >>> On Saturday, February 13, 2016 at 3:00:49 PM UTC-8, stevenarguello wrote: >>>> >>>> For what it's worth, I struggled lining the even the stock cams up, >>>> eventually I sent shots to this list and got the ok, but to me the teeth >>>> never matched up exactly, it was always 1/2 tooth off. >>>> >>>> On Feb 13, 2016, at 5:40 PM, stan finch <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote: >>>> >>>> i was tinkering more today and it seems they had these installed so the >>>> marks would line up on the cams. if i go a tooth either way the marks >>>> touch when not parallel. >>>> >>>> what i noticed though is when trying to line up the cam pulley marks >>>> the exhaust cam slot is level with the head but again the timing between >>>> the cam gears is not perfect. >>>> >>>> i then messed around with turning engine over at crank bolt and noticed >>>> there is a little dead spot in the chain so it has the ability to load up? >>>> >>>> i took the cams out and can't find any markings on the aftermarket cams >>>> so i guess all bets are off. >>>> >>>> i found a thread that mentioned the #1 cam lobes as lining up toward >>>> center of cam caps with stock cams. if i get my marks lined up on these >>>> cams the lobes at #1 do not quite match the same angle towards the middle >>>> of the head an using those studs as a marker. so i guess one sits just a >>>> tad higher at that point than the other. is this how aftermarket cams work >>>> or is it a bad sign that the heights are just a tad different? >>>> >>>> also does the chain sound too loose? i see no markings on that part >>>> and see the shape of teeth stock vs. aftermarket are different. should >>>> each have their own part number or can you swap between ok? >>>> >>>> i saw some instructions for aftermarket cam install that mentioned heat >>>> and press/mallet which made me also wonder about chain slack, mine just >>>> fall off. not sure if thats how the stock setup is? >>>> >>>> >>>> i thought about just putting it back together. and/or trying stock >>>> cams. the chain now bothers me though since i have never seen another one >>>> of these motors up close. >>>> >>>> >>>> On Friday, February 12, 2016 3:52 PM, Holland Phillips < >>>> holland...@gmail.com> wrote: >>>> >>>> >>>> When I installed Schrick 260/276 cams in my car, after my first >>>> attempt, the marks appeared to line up very closely, but not quite exact. I >>>> figured they were close enough, but when I started the engine, I could tell >>>> immediately that it wasn't running correctly. It didn't rev as freely as it >>>> did before I messed with it. So I took it back apart, and removed the cam >>>> retainer caps on one cam so I could move the drive gear one tooth, and >>>> rechecked the alignment marks. They were then lined up exactly. Reassembled >>>> everything and started the engine once again. Perfect! The engine revved >>>> freely and more quickly than ever. I already had a lightened flywheel, and >>>> a bunch of other mods done to the engine, and with the new cams, the car >>>> was noticeably faster than it had ever been. Moral of the story is all >>>> those alignment marks MUST >>>> be exactly aligned, or all bets are off. >>>> ~Holland >>>> On Feb 12, 2016 15:26, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote: >>>> >>>> im in california, ugh! i found out the cams are estas. >>>> >>>> this may sound like a dumb question but when i went to time the car >>>> with stock pulley i found that the front cam is a little off. it looks like >>>> if i made sure the cam marks lined up its one tooth off. this car was >>>> running like this, i don't think any valves were contacting pistons. im >>>> scared to touch it in that sense since it had an adjustable cam. >>>> >>>> i don't understand how these motors work, should the #1 lobes be >>>> pointing towards the middle at the same angle? its hard to tell exactly >>>> but it seems if i turned the front cam to match the internal marks that the >>>> cam lobe might match the other cam. to me right now it looks just a tad >>>> off. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> On Friday, February 5, 2016 at 2:12:10 PM UTC-8, Larry Velez wrote: >>>> >>>> What country are you in that you are so worried about passing smog? In >>>> the USA, most of these cars are now exempt. >>>> >>>> -Larry >>>> >>>> *From:* mk2...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com] *On >>>> Behalf Of *damac2004 >>>> *Sent:* Thursday, February 4, 2016 9:43 PM >>>> *To:* MK2-16v <mk2...@googlegroups.com> >>>> *Cc:* mg...@yahoo.com >>>> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have? >>>> >>>> so are people saying native 2.0 heads can fit onto the 1.8 bottom end? >>>> >>>> is there any kind of clues on castings on the outside i can look for to >>>> see what i have, and does anybody know if the stock cams 16v are the same >>>> part number between 2 and 1.8 liter? >>>> >>>> i just tore into this car more and of course the techtronics chip with >>>> adjustable cam gear, and under the valve cover are not vw cams. i got >>>> colored stripes on these parts but all i can find is some kind of emblem. >>>> i emailed them asking where part numbers are just in case its their parts. >>>> >>>> i don't know if this has an effect on smog but i just want to put the >>>> car back stock. >>>> >>>> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 9:37:13 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote: >>>> >>>> The external differences between 1.8 and 2.0 16V heads and blocks are >>>> very minimal. I don't recall the over hang you speak of, but I wouldn't be >>>> concerned. >>>> ~Holland >>>> On Feb 2, 2016 09:28, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote: >>>> >>>> hmmm, i am still not convinced and found a 1.8 oil pump in it. >>>> >>>> is there a problem with me going with the 2.0 im shaft/gear and its oil >>>> pump? if im reading right it can only help? then i won't have to worry. >>>> >>>> the more i read im still not seeing how it can be a 2.0 bottom end with >>>> the 1.8 intermediate shaft if things don't hit when running the engine. >>>> >>>> >>>> is it normal for the head on these motors to stick way out past the >>>> front of the block where they meet? im used to seeing that area flush on >>>> mydiesel where mated. >>>> >>>> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 6:55:11 AM UTC-8, mgyip wrote: >>>> >>>> Sure sounds like a 2.0l 16v especially because of the 2 knock sensors >>>> which were only present on the 91 and later cars - Digifunk for 8v and >>>> Moronic for 16v. I wouldn't necessarily throw TEPO (the evil previous >>>> owner) under the bus though - Volkswagen was/is notorious for having a vast >>>> spare parts bin that crossed model types and years, throwing together old >>>> and new model parts when their supply was thin. In 91-92, VW quality was, >>>> um, not-so-good and their supply was the same. >>>> >>>> On Monday, February 1, 2016 5:51 PM, Holland Phillips < >>>> faster...@pacbell.net> wrote: >>>> >>>> Well, it's definitely a 9A engine. Whatever else is going on with the >>>> internals is a mystery. I would just buy all the replacement parts you need >>>> for the 9A and be done with it. >>>> On Feb 1, 2016 14:30, damac2004 <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote: >>>> >>>> 1. yes there is an ecu and it has a techtronics chip in it that says >>>> 16v 2.0 >>>> >>>> 2. i think it does have 2 knock sensors on the front of the block to >>>> the left of the block breather fitting? each one looks the same, one has a >>>> bare wire the whole length, and each goes to its own wire harness clip. >>>> >>>> 3. this car is disabled on the driveway and im struggling to get it >>>> higher for me to get underneath. i was trying to feel around back there >>>> from underneath looking up and all i can find on the drivers side lower >>>> block is a big embossed A >>>> >>>> i'm new to these cars so im scared its some kind of other engine. this >>>> still doesn't explain how this car was using the larger im shaft and >>>> smaller oil pump gear? there isn't a mark anywhere on those parts so >>>> obviously they aren't hitting the guts of the engine. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 12:04:43 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote: >>>> >>>> Does it have a ECU mounted under the plastic tray at the base of the >>>> windshield? The tray covers the windshield wiper motor, and is held on by >>>> some clips. If it does, it's probably a 9A. The 1.8 liter 16V doesn't >>>> utilize an ECU. >>>> ~Holland >>>> On Feb 1, 2016 11:59, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote: >>>> >>>> the chasis is a 1991 gti but i don't trust the previous owners after >>>> having seen all the hack jobs. for all i know another motor is in there :( >>>> >>>> >>>> im trying to look on front of block and see these markings in the >>>> picture i attached, down below that is the part number. >>>> >>>> >>>> On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 8:30:48 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote: >>>> >>>> I don't recall you saying what year your car is. If it's a '91-'92 2.0 >>>> liter 16V, the engine designation is 9A. >>>> ~Holland >>>> On Jan 31, 2016 11:51 PM, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote: >>>> >>>> is there some kind of decoder? when i search google i come up with few >>>> and differing answers. i want to find out what engine i have so i can make >>>> sure i get the right intermediate shaft and stock parts to get it smogged. >>>> >>>> >>>> the block says: 051 103 021 >>>> >>>> the head says: *051103373* >>>> -- >>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google >>>> Groups "MK2-16v" group. >>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send >>>> an email to mk2-16v+u...@googlegroups.com. >>>> To post to this group, send email to mk2...@googlegroups.com. >>>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/ group/mk2-16v >>>> <https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v>. >>>> To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/ >>>> msgid/mk2-16v/20c387d7-fd5b- 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