If you hear air rushing sounds like there is a big vacuum leak somewhere. You want to make sure that all the air has to go through the air flow meter otherwise the engine will have a hard time running at low rpm but it would do better if you held the throttle open. On Feb 27, 2016 4:26 PM, "Holland Phillips" <hollandphill...@gmail.com> wrote:
> You said the key word - variables. Since you admit to not having much > experience or knowledge in regards to these engines, I see two options for > you at this point. Either take the car to a professional mechanic who has > experience with the Mk 2 16V cars, or search for a good used 9A engine. > Otherwise, you could spend an awful lot of time experimenting, while > running the risk of doing more harm than good if you try the wrong thing. > Beyond that, if you choose to continue on your own with what you've got, I > would start verifying every part number of the engine assembly, beginning > with the engine block and head casting. Something isn't right at a fairly > basic level, since the engine used to run with non stock parts, but doesn't > want to run correctly now that you've installed what you believe to be > factory standard parts. > I wish you luck! > > ~Holland > On Feb 27, 2016 13:02, "damac2004" <damac2...@sbcglobal.net> wrote: > >> i finally got this car back together and of course its a mess. i put >> what i was told was the stock chip, manifold, cams and throttle body back >> on the car. >> >> verified all timing marks. circle on the flywheel as well as having a >> dipstick on #1. stock cam gears with marks aligning and the stock cam gear >> with marks aligning deck and cover. i put a new chain on and there was no >> loading up of slack like the other setup. >> >> i'm still not sure of all the things the previous owners did but i put >> the distributor back where it was. the car did not like this at all and i >> could just barely tell it was trying to fire but sounds funny like air >> escaping in the engine bay. the manual shows a baseline setting with the >> notch on housing and the rotor so i tried that and no better. then i >> started turning it to the right and was able to get it to start but it was >> chugging and shaking the motor. while running i turned it all the way to >> the right and it atleast stayed running but still loping with a little >> engine shake. >> >> as soon as you push the pedal and take off the idle switch the car >> screams up in rpms almost 2000 rpm. it sounded better and smoother but the >> pedal wasn't doing anything and if i held it there a second or two later >> the rpms dropped and the car dies. >> >> i still don't really know what i am doing here. what other variables >> could be causing me such problems now? does the ecu need to be reset or >> something after a chip change? could they have had different injectors >> with the cams or messed with some kind of fueling settings? there is no >> adjustments on this cars throttle body. >> >> i am tempted to now swap back to the other cams and how the car was setup >> since it was running so good and i don't have a clue what i am doing. >> >> >> On Saturday, February 13, 2016 at 4:57:06 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote: >>> >>> Yes, in a chain/gear system, any slack is bidirectional. In a system >>> with a long chain and/or multiple size gears as in a bicycle, there may be >>> some sort of tensioner, like the derailer on a 5 - 27 speed bicycle. In the >>> case of our cars, the chain is so short, and the inertia caused by the rpm >>> keeps the cam timing consistent. However, that chain will stretch over >>> time, so on a high mileage engine, it's a good idea to replace the chain. >>> As I recall, they aren't very expensive. But that was several years ago, >>> and they were still readily available. >>> >>> ~Holland >>> On Feb 13, 2016 16:40, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote: >>> >>>> half tooth off between the 2 cam gears? thats kind of where mine is >>>> at. once i got the slack out its real close which has me wondering about >>>> the tightness if it can bind up enough to send the marks off one way i >>>> assume the slack is also present turning the other way. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> On Saturday, February 13, 2016 at 3:00:49 PM UTC-8, stevenarguello >>>> wrote: >>>>> >>>>> For what it's worth, I struggled lining the even the stock cams up, >>>>> eventually I sent shots to this list and got the ok, but to me the teeth >>>>> never matched up exactly, it was always 1/2 tooth off. >>>>> >>>>> On Feb 13, 2016, at 5:40 PM, stan finch <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote: >>>>> >>>>> i was tinkering more today and it seems they had these installed so >>>>> the marks would line up on the cams. if i go a tooth either way the marks >>>>> touch when not parallel. >>>>> >>>>> what i noticed though is when trying to line up the cam pulley marks >>>>> the exhaust cam slot is level with the head but again the timing between >>>>> the cam gears is not perfect. >>>>> >>>>> i then messed around with turning engine over at crank bolt and >>>>> noticed there is a little dead spot in the chain so it has the ability to >>>>> load up? >>>>> >>>>> i took the cams out and can't find any markings on the aftermarket >>>>> cams so i guess all bets are off. >>>>> >>>>> i found a thread that mentioned the #1 cam lobes as lining up toward >>>>> center of cam caps with stock cams. if i get my marks lined up on these >>>>> cams the lobes at #1 do not quite match the same angle towards the middle >>>>> of the head an using those studs as a marker. so i guess one sits just a >>>>> tad higher at that point than the other. is this how aftermarket cams >>>>> work >>>>> or is it a bad sign that the heights are just a tad different? >>>>> >>>>> also does the chain sound too loose? i see no markings on that part >>>>> and see the shape of teeth stock vs. aftermarket are different. should >>>>> each have their own part number or can you swap between ok? >>>>> >>>>> i saw some instructions for aftermarket cam install that mentioned >>>>> heat and press/mallet which made me also wonder about chain slack, mine >>>>> just fall off. not sure if thats how the stock setup is? >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> i thought about just putting it back together. and/or trying stock >>>>> cams. the chain now bothers me though since i have never seen another one >>>>> of these motors up close. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> On Friday, February 12, 2016 3:52 PM, Holland Phillips < >>>>> holland...@gmail.com> wrote: >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> When I installed Schrick 260/276 cams in my car, after my first >>>>> attempt, the marks appeared to line up very closely, but not quite exact. >>>>> I >>>>> figured they were close enough, but when I started the engine, I could >>>>> tell >>>>> immediately that it wasn't running correctly. It didn't rev as freely as >>>>> it >>>>> did before I messed with it. So I took it back apart, and removed the cam >>>>> retainer caps on one cam so I could move the drive gear one tooth, and >>>>> rechecked the alignment marks. They were then lined up exactly. >>>>> Reassembled >>>>> everything and started the engine once again. Perfect! The engine revved >>>>> freely and more quickly than ever. I already had a lightened flywheel, and >>>>> a bunch of other mods done to the engine, and with the new cams, the car >>>>> was noticeably faster than it had ever been. Moral of the story is all >>>>> those alignment marks MUST >>>>> be exactly aligned, or all bets are off. >>>>> ~Holland >>>>> On Feb 12, 2016 15:26, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote: >>>>> >>>>> im in california, ugh! i found out the cams are estas. >>>>> >>>>> this may sound like a dumb question but when i went to time the car >>>>> with stock pulley i found that the front cam is a little off. it looks >>>>> like >>>>> if i made sure the cam marks lined up its one tooth off. this car was >>>>> running like this, i don't think any valves were contacting pistons. im >>>>> scared to touch it in that sense since it had an adjustable cam. >>>>> >>>>> i don't understand how these motors work, should the #1 lobes be >>>>> pointing towards the middle at the same angle? its hard to tell exactly >>>>> but it seems if i turned the front cam to match the internal marks that >>>>> the >>>>> cam lobe might match the other cam. to me right now it looks just a tad >>>>> off. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> On Friday, February 5, 2016 at 2:12:10 PM UTC-8, Larry Velez wrote: >>>>> >>>>> What country are you in that you are so worried about passing smog? >>>>> In the USA, most of these cars are now exempt. >>>>> >>>>> -Larry >>>>> >>>>> *From:* mk2...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com] *On >>>>> Behalf Of *damac2004 >>>>> *Sent:* Thursday, February 4, 2016 9:43 PM >>>>> *To:* MK2-16v <mk2...@googlegroups.com> >>>>> *Cc:* mg...@yahoo.com >>>>> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have? >>>>> >>>>> so are people saying native 2.0 heads can fit onto the 1.8 bottom end? >>>>> >>>>> is there any kind of clues on castings on the outside i can look for >>>>> to see what i have, and does anybody know if the stock cams 16v are the >>>>> same part number between 2 and 1.8 liter? >>>>> >>>>> i just tore into this car more and of course the techtronics chip with >>>>> adjustable cam gear, and under the valve cover are not vw cams. i got >>>>> colored stripes on these parts but all i can find is some kind of emblem. >>>>> i emailed them asking where part numbers are just in case its their >>>>> parts. >>>>> >>>>> i don't know if this has an effect on smog but i just want to put the >>>>> car back stock. >>>>> >>>>> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 9:37:13 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips >>>>> wrote: >>>>> >>>>> The external differences between 1.8 and 2.0 16V heads and blocks are >>>>> very minimal. I don't recall the over hang you speak of, but I wouldn't be >>>>> concerned. >>>>> ~Holland >>>>> On Feb 2, 2016 09:28, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote: >>>>> >>>>> hmmm, i am still not convinced and found a 1.8 oil pump in it. >>>>> >>>>> is there a problem with me going with the 2.0 im shaft/gear and its >>>>> oil pump? if im reading right it can only help? then i won't have to >>>>> worry. >>>>> >>>>> the more i read im still not seeing how it can be a 2.0 bottom end >>>>> with the 1.8 intermediate shaft if things don't hit when running the >>>>> engine. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> is it normal for the head on these motors to stick way out past the >>>>> front of the block where they meet? im used to seeing that area flush on >>>>> mydiesel where mated. >>>>> >>>>> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 6:55:11 AM UTC-8, mgyip wrote: >>>>> >>>>> Sure sounds like a 2.0l 16v especially because of the 2 knock sensors >>>>> which were only present on the 91 and later cars - Digifunk for 8v and >>>>> Moronic for 16v. I wouldn't necessarily throw TEPO (the evil previous >>>>> owner) under the bus though - Volkswagen was/is notorious for having a >>>>> vast >>>>> spare parts bin that crossed model types and years, throwing together old >>>>> and new model parts when their supply was thin. In 91-92, VW quality was, >>>>> um, not-so-good and their supply was the same. >>>>> >>>>> On Monday, February 1, 2016 5:51 PM, Holland Phillips < >>>>> faster...@pacbell.net> wrote: >>>>> >>>>> Well, it's definitely a 9A engine. Whatever else is going on with the >>>>> internals is a mystery. I would just buy all the replacement parts you >>>>> need >>>>> for the 9A and be done with it. >>>>> On Feb 1, 2016 14:30, damac2004 <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote: >>>>> >>>>> 1. yes there is an ecu and it has a techtronics chip in it that says >>>>> 16v 2.0 >>>>> >>>>> 2. i think it does have 2 knock sensors on the front of the block to >>>>> the left of the block breather fitting? each one looks the same, one has >>>>> a >>>>> bare wire the whole length, and each goes to its own wire harness clip. >>>>> >>>>> 3. this car is disabled on the driveway and im struggling to get it >>>>> higher for me to get underneath. i was trying to feel around back there >>>>> from underneath looking up and all i can find on the drivers side lower >>>>> block is a big embossed A >>>>> >>>>> i'm new to these cars so im scared its some kind of other engine. >>>>> this still doesn't explain how this car was using the larger im shaft and >>>>> smaller oil pump gear? there isn't a mark anywhere on those parts so >>>>> obviously they aren't hitting the guts of the engine. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 12:04:43 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips >>>>> wrote: >>>>> >>>>> Does it have a ECU mounted under the plastic tray at the base of the >>>>> windshield? The tray covers the windshield wiper motor, and is held on by >>>>> some clips. If it does, it's probably a 9A. The 1.8 liter 16V doesn't >>>>> utilize an ECU. >>>>> ~Holland >>>>> On Feb 1, 2016 11:59, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote: >>>>> >>>>> the chasis is a 1991 gti but i don't trust the previous owners after >>>>> having seen all the hack jobs. for all i know another motor is in there >>>>> :( >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> im trying to look on front of block and see these markings in the >>>>> picture i attached, down below that is the part number. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 8:30:48 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote: >>>>> >>>>> I don't recall you saying what year your car is. If it's a '91-'92 2.0 >>>>> liter 16V, the engine designation is 9A. >>>>> ~Holland >>>>> On Jan 31, 2016 11:51 PM, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote: >>>>> >>>>> is there some kind of decoder? when i search google i come up with >>>>> few and differing answers. i want to find out what engine i have so i can >>>>> make sure i get the right intermediate shaft and stock parts to get it >>>>> smogged. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> the block says: 051 103 021 >>>>> >>>>> the head says: *051103373* >>>>> -- >>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google >>>>> Groups "MK2-16v" group. >>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send >>>>> an email to mk2-16v+u...@googlegroups.com. >>>>> To post to this group, send email to mk2...@googlegroups.com. >>>>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/ group/mk2-16v >>>>> <https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v>. >>>>> To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/ >>>>> 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