> Laser cutting wood ? Does't that give burned edges ?
>
> eric

Yes, it does. But as john said, you can sand it off later, or keep it
on, for "effect", if you like.

On that note, lasers for cutting steel can also burn. It depends on
the 'purge gas' used. For Stainless Steel and aluminum, the gas is
usually nitrogen shot thru the cut line at a relatively high pressure
to just push (purge) the molten metal out of the way. For mild steel,
however, oxygen is used at a much lower flow rate. That way the laser
cutter acts more like an old fashion cutting torch, which burns the
metal at the cut line, turning the metal into rust. For special
materials like titanium, argon is sometimes used, because the hot
titanium reacts with nitrogen, if it is used.

The lasers for wood and plastic are different than those used for
metal, and the price tag reflects it too. The plastic/wood types cost
anywhere from $1500, for the cheap chinese units, up. From more
quality companies the units go from ~$8K for a small unit to ~$20K for
more comonly used units. Power is usually in the 25 to 50W range.
Lasers for cutting metal start ~$250K, and typically can run ~1/2
million dollars. Power is in the 2000W to 5000W range.

You can plug a wood/plastic cutting laser in a common household
outlet. The metal cutters need the services of an electrician, to hook
them up to 440V three phase, and a 200A circuit, for each phase. The
3ph breaker, alone, will set you back over $1K. I don't even want to
know what 000 gauge copper wire is going for nowadays.

Hey and its still kinda on topic, because its ionized gas. For both
classes, above, its CO2, with a little He & N2 added. On the cheap
chinese units, they ionize the gas by shooting electricity thru it,
just like a neon bulb. But for the better wood/plastic engraver/
cutters, and the big metal cutting monsters, the gas in the laser
cavity, is usually excited by a high power RF field. It keeps the
cavity clean, and you get a lot more life out your laser tubes.

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