Well, you can still buy IN-7 tubes on the bay for less than 1 buck a tube so get them while they last...;-)
How much juice does the chess set need for all 32 illuminated? About 130 mA at 170V so a 25 W supply? On Thu, Jun 21, 2012 at 1:08 PM, Dan Harboe Burer <[email protected]> wrote: > This IS the most impressive non-clock nixie project I have ever seen. WOW > :o) > > Yes a kit would be very interesting for me too :o) (a bit depinding on > price) > > Regards > Dan > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Adams" <[email protected] > > > To: "neonixie-l" <[email protected]> > Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2012 9:52 PM > Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Finally completed my latest project... > > > > Hi, > > Much of the work is in cutting and machining the parts, if there is > enough interest I'd supply it as a kit though. > > Tony. > > On Jun 21, 8:22 pm, Dekatron42 <[email protected]> wrote: > >> Absolutely fantastic! >> >> This might actually get me to play chess again! >> >> Will you publish schematic drawing of this so it could be built? >> >> /Martin >> >> On Jun 21, 9:11 pm, Tony Adams <[email protected]> wrote: >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > Thank you :) >> >> > They're driven inductively using an array of 64 tuned primaries and a >> > secondary coil in the base of each piece which directly feeds a C-W >> > multplier to produce around 180v. >> >> > Tony. >> >> > On Jun 21, 7:35 pm, jb-electronics <[email protected]> >> > wrote: >> >> > > Seriously: The coolest thing I have ever seen with Nixie tubes. How do >> > > you drive the tubes? >> >> > > Jens >> >> > > > Hi all, >> >> > > > Hope you won't mind me spamming this here but I've finally completed >> > > > something nixie-based. >> >> > > > I have a bad habit of building prototypes only to add to an ever- >> > > > growing list of 'features' which inevitably result in a completely >> > > > new >> > > > design and software rewrite - so I decided to build something that >> > > > couldn't suffer from feature creep and wouldn't 'benefit' from >> > > > humidity sensors, GPS, USB, IR or RF remote or movement activation. >> >> > > > Some pictures and a (not very good) video of it in operation can be >> > > > found here: >> >> > > >http://www.lasermad.com/?p=**235 <http://www.lasermad.com/?p=235> >> >> > > > Hmmm... a PIR sensor might just... I could easily add that to the >> > > > controller... and a touch switch to deactivate.. or maybe a > > > >> Zigbee.... >> >> > > > Tony. >> > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "neonixie-l" group. > To post to this group, send an email to [email protected]. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscribe@** > googlegroups.com <neonixie-l%[email protected]>. > For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/** > group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB<http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB> > . > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "neonixie-l" group. > To post to this group, send an email to [email protected]. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscribe@** > googlegroups.com <neonixie-l%[email protected]>. > For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/** > group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB<http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB> > . > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected]. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
