I used direct-drive on my first nixie project only because my gut-instinct was to keep it as simple as possible; I've stuck with that ever since. Too many postings about 'noisy nixies', choosing the correct cathode-current, bleeding, flickering, RFI, etc. I've even seen scary-looking blue arcs between anodes in a panaplex. Even my wristwatch is direct-drive (lucky me, the SP-151 has separate pins for each cathode segment...)
Since I dont sell anything, the extra cost for direct-drive isn't an issue for me. That said, I have an unusual 9-segment (not a typo; it has 2 more segments in the middle so you can display characters like T, W, etc) display that requires multiplexing, and I hope to make a clock out of it in the near future. Fingers crossed I wont have any weird problems....just wish I could find a few more of these units for spares. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To post to this group, send an email to [email protected]. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/1a902863-3f11-44e9-a9fd-f9d507e5b420%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
