Hi Yall, Okay, I scoped the board and I have almost 500us of total dead time between digits. This was measured on the digital outputs from the CPU. My code is written in a way that I turn off all of the segment and digit signals one at a time in a for loop so they are not all triggering at once. They are turned on in a like manner. I do not know the time between these, but the app know's nothing about the actual port and bit that is being turned on or off so I assume the time is in the 1us ball park if not more. I am using a 16MHZ ATMega328.
As for direct drive, I am multiplexing because of a lack of pins and board space. I wanted a nice small board as well as through hole parts because I want to sell this as a kit. I just don't have room for a couple of more DIPS. I like the idea of the moving the resistors, I will try this. I will also spread my segment lines out going between the 4 digits up top and the 2 digits below. I am still contemplating the ground plains they are easy to do. I will have to ask a couple of people at work about the issue of them possibly increasing the coupling between the lines. Biasing the lines is another idea I will try as well.I can do most of these before the next board spin. Depending on how the other things I try go, I will then decide on the plains. -joe On Tue, Feb 24, 2015 at 2:28 PM, gregebert <gregeb...@hotmail.com> wrote: > I used direct-drive on my first nixie project only because my gut-instinct > was to keep it as simple as possible; I've stuck with that ever since. > Too many postings about 'noisy nixies', choosing the correct > cathode-current, bleeding, flickering, RFI, etc. I've even seen > scary-looking blue arcs between anodes in a panaplex. > Even my wristwatch is direct-drive (lucky me, the SP-151 has separate pins > for each cathode segment...) > > Since I dont sell anything, the extra cost for direct-drive isn't an issue > for me. > > That said, I have an unusual 9-segment (not a typo; it has 2 more segments > in the middle so you can display characters like T, W, etc) display that > requires multiplexing, and I hope to make a clock out of it in the near > future. Fingers crossed I wont have any weird problems....just wish I could > find a few more of these units for spares. > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "neonixie-l" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > To post to this group, send email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. > To view this discussion on the web, visit > https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/1a902863-3f11-44e9-a9fd-f9d507e5b420%40googlegroups.com > <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/1a902863-3f11-44e9-a9fd-f9d507e5b420%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer> > . > > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/CAE%2BVk6O3%2B5X_or%3DePCz%3DD_dXF27G52F1%2BRHO9TZtWt8NJ7hx_A%40mail.gmail.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
