Greg,

Thanks for the info, I've taken pretty much all of into account in my 
newest version. I indeed did get sockets for when this version inevitably 
gets replaced by rev2. I'd be interested in taking a look at that .stl file 
and maybe give it a print if you don't mind sharing. 

Shep

On Thursday, March 31, 2016 at 1:26:13 PM UTC-6, gregebert wrote:
>
> Forgot to mention this: Tube sockets
>
> As you know, IN-18's are getting rather expensive so you need to be very 
> gentle with them.
>
> I decided to use socket-pins soldered onto the PC board (inexpensive & 
> available on Ebay), rather than actual 'sockets', because my past 
> experience with nixie-tube sockets found they require quite a bit of force 
> to insert & remove. All of my IN-18's, except 1 oddball manufactured in 
> 1977, have very soft pins, and I'd be afraid to push them into a socket. 
> Even though my clock sits on the shelf and I hope I will never remove the 
> tubes again, I had to insert & remove all of them a few times while 
> building the case.
>
> If you decide to use socket pins, be sure to number each of your IN-18's 
> and assign them to a socket location on your PCB. Then push the socket pins 
> onto the IN-18, and solder to the PCB. This will minimize the stress on the 
> tube because the socket-pins are custom-fitted to each tube; once you do 
> this, though, you dont want to swap tubes. You can easily remove the tubes; 
> re-installing requires some care but very little force.
>
> I created a .stl file for a 3D printable pin-shell, but havn't bothered to 
> build it because the tube is held securely enough without it.
>

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