>
> Thanks Bob
>

I am still a paper pencil guy for right now. I made a couple prints with 
tracing paper to test the design. After some adjustments with a real eraser 
I overlapped them and the were identical. I made a spreadsheet in Excel  
that shows the center point distance of each hole vertically from the top 
and from the center out horizontally.

I also calculated the arc radius for the main curve and arc radius for the 
last 1.25" on each end.

I also made a table in decimal and fraction equivalent for all the hole 
sizes.

The basic shape will fit a 3/8" x 22" x 2.3/4" of 6061 T6 Al plate. It will 
have 23 hole that 11 are a mirror image of the other side.

Making everything fit and look good took me a couple days but I am just 
about there. I just need someone to input the data in a CAD program to see 
how it looks and if I need to do any adjustments so the spacing between 
holes is exactly the same.

It is pretty simple for someone that is fluent and would not take that 
long. For me it would probably take over a week and to learn the basics. 
But to learn the shortcuts to move the holes ever so slightly so everything 
aligns properly is another story. 

Don't get me wrong as I used a CNC milling machine before  but just did not 
understand the G code and CNC programing at that time.

The main thing is the design is going fit the R568 PCB board. Since the 
tubes overhang 1-2mm on each end and are flush with the front of the PCB, I 
needed the correct spacing for the Acrylic case so I had to rework the 
dimensions  a few times to make it fit the design and still look pleasing.

So the base stands 2-3/4" high. Looking from the front the bottom length is 
22" and the top is 18". It has a 4-7/8" depth.

The Acrylic case will be 4-5/8 x 18" x 6" High. So the total size of the 
clock with Acrylic case  will be 8-3/4"  high x 22" long x  4-7/8" depth.

If anyone can help in the CNC program for a small donation let me know:) I 
can send the data and pictures of the prints to make it pretty clear.

The first thing is to get a accurate print made of the front view with 
corrected dimensions. The rest will be easy.

Regards 
Edward



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