I have an early Pete Hand FLW clock, to which I added the PIR sensor. It's 
actually positioned outside the acrylic case, along side the feet. Very 
inconspicuous. Since it's essentially black in color, you will not notice 
it until you look for it. I don't even think it's visible in this picture:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/32165280@N02/6327922052/in/album-72157628062875880/

I'd have preferred to have placed it inside the case, below the PCB, but it 
did not function thru the plastic. Drilling a hole would have made it very 
conspicuous.

It does seem to activate the clock from about 20 feet away.

Terry


On Friday, January 5, 2018 at 3:33:27 PM UTC-6, gregebert wrote:
>
> I cant take credit for depoisoning; lots of collective experience from 
> this group and we all chip-in what we learn.
> I've had minimal success running at high current to depoison a dirty tube. 
> But, why not try it ? You have nothing to lose.
>
>
>    - Some tubes just wear-out or leak. I have several Burroughs 5031's 
>    that simply wont improve.
>    - Some tubes just dont seem to die. I have yet to see a 5092 die in 
>    any of my clocks (6 years * 4 clocks * 6 tubes = 0 failures)
>    - Some tubes will wear-out if you display a single character 24/7 [A 
>    very bad thing to do; but that clock looks so cool...] I've lost 2 
>    Burroughs 6091's, and partially rejuvenated a third tube.
>    - Some tubes fail in a different manner. I've had bad experiences with 
>    cathodes of IN-1's shorting internally with metal whiskers. Others have 
> not.
>    - When all else fails, there always the microwave oven:  
>    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AYUMy0P560k
>
>
> The PIR sensors have an ugly hemispherical dome, roughly 5/8" diameter. 
> Looks like the eyeball of gigantic house-fly. But they will protect your 
> expensive tubes.
>

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