>
> I was planning to not multiplex my nixies, probably leaving all cathodes 
> connected directly to the HV line, and placing current liming resistors on 
> the cathodes.  Was interested to see if I'd need to tweak any of the 
> individual resistor values uniform current/brightness.
>

I only just reread what I wrote there, and realise I made a typo.  I should 
have said I was going to connect all the anodes to the HV line...


On Thursday, 7 March 2019 00:41:00 UTC+8, nixiebunny wrote:
>
> Another important fact about Nixie tube cathodes: turning on one cathode 
> by pulling it to zero volts causes it to steer all the available current 
> away from the other cathodes, causing them to be dark. This is why you only 
> need a 50V switch on each cathode. 
> The caveat is that if no cathodes are pulled to zero volts, then there 
> will be leakage current flowing through the tube that will destroy a 50V 
> transistor. This is why I used the TD62083 with its set of commutation 
> diodes, and connected the diode common anode pin to a 50V source in my 
> Nixie watch circuit.
> It's also why I made the blanking mode that drops the anode voltage to 
> 100V, so that the cathodes all remain dark when blanked. 
>
>
Ah, well that comes back to the page I referenced in the opening: 
http://www.decodesystems.com/re-how-nixies-work.html.  Maybe that was 
written in reference to having leaky cathode transistors? (With no voltage 
clamp, as in Fig. 4.)  If I had say 300V+ transistors with sufficiently low 
leakage when off (< 10 uA) and a 170V power supply, would I be able to 
blank the tube safely by turning all transistors off?

I'll have another look at power supplies. :)  I was a little concerned 
about how to calculate the value of the loop compensation components.  For 
my first attempt I figured I'd avoid the problem altogether by using one of 
Yan's power supplies, and focus on the segment driving circuitry.
 

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