Yes, indeed I could do that - it would make the board a lot simpler though my regular train of thought is that I have to mount the tubes somehow so I might as well make it a single board to save all that wiring and space etc.
If there was ever a situation where remotely mounted tubes was a necessary thing then of course - a remote board could be made. In the past I have used 2x6 IDC headers for nixies that require 11 connections. If one wanted to utilise the under tube led lighting on numitrons then a 2 x 6 also works there (8 for the numitron and 4 for the LED). This then requires a numitron mounting board - one per numitron? which has the LED etc all mounted. I would say though that IMHO - most situations would require the 6 numitrons to be positioned in a single row - so why not have everything on a single board? Do you see an application for a remote board? - Richard On Monday, 15 November 2021 at 19:35:51 UTC valve monky wrote: > hae you consider putting in rows of holes for pin headers so you could use > it for remote tube sockets ? > > On Monday, November 15, 2021 at 4:54:25 AM UTC Richard Scales wrote: > >> Ah, OK, I can see what you did there - excellent. >> >> .... and you can see that I did mostly the same, I just modified the >> circuit board to fit the tubes - same software! >> >> - Richard >> >> >> On Sunday, 14 November 2021 at 16:02:36 UTC valve monky wrote: >> >>> [image: IMG_20210311_233608.jpg] >>> photo of it rear >>> On Sunday, November 14, 2021 at 4:50:02 AM UTC Richard Scales wrote: >>> >>>> @Mark Moulding - actually - no - that's it, that's all there is. The >>>> logic is hiding on the back: >>>> >>>> [image: Capture2.JPG] >>>> >>>> It consists of a WeMos D1 min micro controller which handles most >>>> everything. Individual TLC5916 drivers - one per tube then there is an >>>> optional DS3231 RTC which requires a battery to keep it going during power >>>> outage. >>>> >>>> I have never actually bothered with fitting the RTC as the WeMos syncs >>>> the clock with NTP time. >>>> >>>> There are connections for a button, a motion control device and there >>>> is a light dependant resistor which will dim the tubes when the ambient >>>> light decreases. All configuration is via a web gui - the software that >>>> runs everything is from Ian Sparks and has been used with his kind >>>> permission. >>>> >>>> There are options for powering it via USB (that chunky rear entry >>>> socket type) or by 12V barrel connector (using a simple 12V to 5V module >>>> which behaves like a 7805 but is in fact a proper power supply inside). >>>> >>>> There is also the option of under tube LED 'bling' which by default >>>> uses APA-106 LED's though I have made some tiny PCB's that will solder as >>>> APA-106 but actually have a WS2812B neopixel. It all depends on how far >>>> the >>>> nipple on the tubes extends into the hole that I have made for them. >>>> >>>> The overall design should allow the construction of a fairly skinny >>>> case. >>>> >>>> - Richard >>>> >>>> >>>> On Saturday, 13 November 2021 at 18:18:08 UTC Mark Moulding wrote: >>>> >>>>> @Valve Monky: That's a nice-looking clock! The beveled edges of the >>>>> plywood give an attractive effect to a look I'm ordinarily not too fond >>>>> of >>>>> - nice job! >>>>> >>>>> @Richard Scales: I assume this is a separate display board for a logic >>>>> board somewhere else in the clock. That's the approach I took, so that I >>>>> can make different clock layouts without having to redesign the whole >>>>> clock >>>>> every time. Regarding the tube spacing, I think you're going in the >>>>> right >>>>> direction - every time I moved them closer, the clock looked better. >>>>> This >>>>> is a terrible picture, but the clock looks pretty nice in person... >>>>> >>>>> Initially I put the drivers on the main board and used a ribbon cable >>>>> to connect the two (I'm using 74LS595s to directly drive the filaments, >>>>> non-multiplexed). However, routing that wide cable turned into a hassle >>>>> sometimes, so now I just have an eight-conductor cable (power, ground, >>>>> shift clock, data, load strobe, output enable, colon, light sensor). Of >>>>> course, laying out the traces between the tubes and the drivers is almost >>>>> the most tedious part, but they're not at all critical so I just let the >>>>> PCB package take a stab at auto-routing - the result frequently looks >>>>> ugly, >>>>> but it changes a two-hour job into a three-minute one. >>>>> >>>>> It turns out that sockets for the DTF-104Bs are still commonly >>>>> available from the vintage audio dealers - they're 9-pin Novar/Magnoval >>>>> sockets, such as this one >>>>> <https://tubedepot.com/products/9-pin-novar-magnoval-socket>. If you >>>>> lay out the board with larger pin holes, you can use point-to-point >>>>> sockets >>>>> like these as PCB mount. Just make sure to have a tube in the socket >>>>> when >>>>> soldering onto the board, so that the pins are lined up correctly. >>>>> ~~ >>>>> Mark Moulding >>>>> >>>>> [image: LeopardClock (Large).jpg] >>>>> On Saturday, November 13, 2021 at 9:08:18 AM UTC-8 Pramanicin wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> Excellent stuff....those tubes look great. >>>>>> >>>>>> On Fri, Nov 12, 2021 at 8:01 PM Richard Scales < >>>>>> [email protected]> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> I'm about to embark on a similar journey - I've gone for tighter >>>>>>> tube spacing which I'm not 100% convinced will be right - time will >>>>>>> tell. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> [image: Capture.JPG] >>>>>>> >>>>>>> - Richard >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> On Friday, 12 November 2021 at 17:32:30 UTC newxito wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Nice job, that's a great looking clock! >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> valve monky schrieb am Freitag, 12. November 2021 um 17:25:44 UTC+1: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> [image: IMG_20210311_233745.jpg] >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> -- >>>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google >>>>>>> Groups "neonixie-l" group. >>>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, >>>>>>> send an email to [email protected]. >>>>>>> >>>>>> To view this discussion on the web, visit >>>>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/aaad07c8-c0b8-4f4e-8620-4da962684728n%40googlegroups.com >>>>>>> >>>>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/aaad07c8-c0b8-4f4e-8620-4da962684728n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer> >>>>>>> . >>>>>>> >>>>>> -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. 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