In order to be able to talk about the same thing, I have a few questions regarding my DC power supply. I have in order: a 0-30V / 0-10A adjustable DC power supply, a NCH6100HV (12-24V to 85-235V HV) module, a 0-300V DC voltmeter, a 0-30mA ammeter and a 32.4 kΩ limiting resistor mounted on the wire that goes to the tube. in my opinion, the voltmeter should be in place of the resistance and vice versa. so far, am I okay?
If I replace the adjustable resistor of the HT module with a potentiometer on the front, I can modify the voltage. My current limiting resistor (a USSR model salvaged from a IN-12 nixie board) measures 10mm x 4mm. I have no idea of its power or the power needed, as I want to change the intensity, I have to replace my resistor with a second potentiometer. I thought of a potentiometer of 50 or 100k. But what power... a small Chinese knob or a large rehostat of 200 kilograms? I don't want to power much more than 5 or 6 tubes. Until now my DC power supply never showed anything other than 0.00 A Am I completely off the mark or is it doable? I also have a DC-DC yh11068a module (https://dalmura.com.au/static/YH11068A.pdf Here in France, ebay is not used by companies to resell their used equipment. Removing an item from an inventory requires tons of paperwork. So, finding a power supply for an EDM machine is rather complicated. Le vendredi 21 avril 2023 à 23:41:38 UTC+2, Moses a écrit : > I've always just "unpoisoned" tubes with slightly higher current then > normal, not higher voltage. A couple of hours to a few days usually fixes > them for me. I don't think a 150-200% overdrive on the current will hurt it > too much for a short duration. I've seen some tubes unpoisoned right in > front of my eyes after just a few minutes at around double the current. > > I've used brand new tubes where some digits didn't light fully.. usually > after a few days of normal usage, at normal current levels, they came back. > I've always viewed this as normal. I figure they have been sitting unlit > for decades, it may take a little while to get everything lit up. > > Regards, > -Moses > > On Friday, April 21, 2023 at 1:19:55 PM UTC-7 Benoit Tourret wrote: > >> I don't know how to rise the intensity... >> I wish I had a laboratory DC power supply, but mine stops at 30V. >> so I put a NCH6300HV to raise the voltage. If I can adjust the voltage, >> I cannot adjust anything else. >> however I added a voltmeter and ammeter to check what I'm sending to the >> tube. Do you know if there is an adjustable power supply that can be used >> for our beloved tubes? >> So, I regulate the voltage and I check that I do not exceed the desired >> values. >> >> should I change the 32K resistor between the PS and the tube? could a >> potentiometer be used? >> >> So I did see an improvement. but some need to be "heated". I of course >> doesn't speak of temperature, but they need 10 to 20 seconds to get their >> full glow, a bit like a neon tube with an old starter. >> They are 52 years old now and never been used. >> >> Le vendredi 21 avril 2023 à 16:20:59 UTC+2, gregebert a écrit : >> >>> The IN-1 datasheet says 2.5mA typical operating current, so you should >>> try cleaning the other 3 tubes at just under 3mA. The other 7 tubes might >>> clean-up on their own at normal current if the usage is balanced. >>> >>> So did you see some improvement ? >>> >>> On Friday, April 21, 2023 at 12:14:05 AM UTC-7 Benoit Tourret wrote: >>> >>>> I ran each tube with 180V 2mA / two hours, turning each plate for 2 >>>> minutes. >>>> >>>> on 10 tubes: >>>> >>>> 7 are OK >>>> 3 are not perfect. >>>> >>>> I will wait to be able to lit them all together. >>>> >>>> >>>> Le jeudi 20 avril 2023 à 01:27:40 UTC+2, gregebert a écrit : >>>> >>>>> I couldn't resist asking google Bard this question: Are IN-1 nixie >>>>> tubes reliable ? >>>>> Well, here's the answer. Feel free to laugh.....love the part about >>>>> the filaments. Geez, maybe that's why I had so much trouble with mine ? >>>>> >>>>> IN-1 nixie tubes are generally reliable, but they can fail over time. >>>>> The most common failure mode is a leak in the vacuum tube. This can >>>>> happen >>>>> due to a number of factors, including manufacturing defects, physical >>>>> damage, or exposure to extreme temperatures. >>>>> >>>>> If a leak develops, the tube will slowly fill with air and the >>>>> filaments will eventually burn out. This can happen over a period of >>>>> months >>>>> or even years. To prevent leaks, it is important to store IN-1 nixie >>>>> tubes >>>>> in a cool, dry place and to avoid dropping or banging them. >>>>> >>>>> Another potential failure mode is a failure of the heater filament. >>>>> This can happen due to a number of factors, including overheating, >>>>> overvoltage, or physical damage. If the heater filament fails, the tube >>>>> will not light up. >>>>> >>>>> To prevent heater filament failures, it is important to use a >>>>> regulated power supply and to avoid exceeding the maximum operating >>>>> voltage. >>>>> >>>>> On Tuesday, April 18, 2023 at 2:03:54 PM UTC-7 gregebert wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> I never had an IN-1 run long enough to get poisoned. Mine developed >>>>>> internal shorts, resulting in 2 numerals glowing at the same time. >>>>>> From what I've heard, nixie degradation increases exponentially with >>>>>> current, so you want to stay as close as possible to normal operating >>>>>> current. Try running the worst digit continuously for a few hours at 20% >>>>>> higher current, and see if that helps. I was (briefly) drawn to the IN-1 >>>>>> over 10 years ago because of the large size for the low cost; I bought a >>>>>> case of 25 for around 40USD including shipping. Only a few survive today >>>>>> that weren't dissected or tortured in a microwave oven (yeah, pretty >>>>>> hilarious but kinda toxic because of the bakelite). >>>>>> >>>>>> A few of the IN-18's in my clock have shown signs of poisoning even >>>>>> though I run a cleansing routine for 1 hour every night. This is >>>>>> most-visible on the first day of the month for the months digit, and it >>>>>> can >>>>>> take a few days to recover. This clock has 14 tubes; kinda ridiculous >>>>>> but >>>>>> it looks impressive. It was inspired by the movie "Tomorrowland", which >>>>>> has >>>>>> a brief scene with two 6-digit IN-18 clocks. I'm certain one of our >>>>>> neonixie members is the creator of that clock (that was an invitation >>>>>> for >>>>>> you to take a well-deserved bow...). >>>>>> >>>>>> Tubes that run 0-9 during the day need no cleansing (unit seconds, >>>>>> unit minutes, unit hours). Tubes the run 0-5 during the day are cleansed >>>>>> by >>>>>> running 6-9 (tens seconds, tens minutes). Tubes that are static, or near >>>>>> static (tens hours, month, day, year) run 0-9 for cleansing. >>>>>> >>>>>> The static tubes, notably the 4-digit year, show very little signs of >>>>>> poisoning because I have swapped them around to put the >>>>>> most-vulnerable-to-poisoning tubes where they run 0-9 during the day. >>>>>> >>>>>> I havn't seen any signs of poisoning on Burroughs tubes. >>>>>> >>>>>> On Tuesday, April 18, 2023 at 11:39:54 AM UTC-7 Benoit Tourret wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> Hello, I have some IN-1 that seems to be poisoned. poisoned or >>>>>>> rather oxided, as they seems to be really new. it is fine mesh from >>>>>>> September 1971. >>>>>>> two of them are fine after one or two day, tree other doesn't show >>>>>>> any improvement. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> I read that I must overload them a while but how many and how long >>>>>>> should I keep one digit on before light the next digit ? is it 1 second >>>>>>> or >>>>>>> one day... >>>>>>> >>>>>>> by the way, as I read that this tube doesn't have mercury inside, >>>>>>> can it be unpoisonned ? >>>>>>> >>>>>> -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. 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