Benoit, I'll try and clarify what I can for you.
"the voltmeter should be in place of the resistance and vice versa"... I think you mean ammeter here? If so, the ammeter is in series, so it shouldn't matter where it is really. If you really did mean voltmeter.. it depends on if you want to read the power supply voltage or the voltage drop on your nixie tube. For the power of your resistor: Once the nixie tube lights.. the sustaining voltage is going to be around 140v or so on the nixie tube. Leaving about 40v drop on your resistor. Power dissipation on your resistor will then be.. P=VI, P=40*0.0025ma, P=0.1watts. I normal 1/4 watt resistor should be fine. Same calculation applies if you want to put a rheostat on your tube, a smaller one should be fine. No need for 200kg one lol Do remember, one dropping resistor per nixie tube. Pay attention to the voltage rating on the resistor too, most small ones are a maximum of 200v or 250v, for the rheostat see if you can find the datasheet for this max voltage. Yes, the sustaining voltage is a lot lower on the resistor, but I would try and use one that is rated for your supply voltage. If you are using a rheostat for adjusting the tube current, put a resistor in series as well to set your lower value. This is so you don't drive the tube with 0 ohm resistance when you turn it all the way down. A 20k or so should be ok. That yh11068a module is rated for 40 watts! That is like 10 times what you would need for most nixie clocks! Be careful at higher voltages, a 200mA capable supply at a few hundred volts will hurt you good. Regards, -Moses On Saturday, April 22, 2023 at 5:30:08 AM UTC-7 Benoit Tourret wrote: > In order to be able to talk about the same thing, I have a few questions > regarding my DC power supply. > I have in order: a 0-30V / 0-10A adjustable DC power supply, a NCH6100HV > (12-24V > to 85-235V HV) module, a 0-300V DC voltmeter, a 0-30mA ammeter and a 32.4 > kΩ limiting resistor mounted on the wire that goes to the tube. > in my opinion, the voltmeter should be in place of the resistance and vice > versa. so far, am I okay? > > If I replace the adjustable resistor of the HT module with a potentiometer > on the front, I can modify the voltage. > My current limiting resistor (a USSR model salvaged from a IN-12 nixie > board) measures 10mm x 4mm. I have no idea of its power or the power > needed, as I want to change the intensity, I have to replace my resistor > with a second potentiometer. > I thought of a potentiometer of 50 or 100k. But what power... a small > Chinese knob or a large rehostat of 200 kilograms? > I don't want to power much more than 5 or 6 tubes. > Until now my DC power supply never showed anything other than 0.00 A > > Am I completely off the mark or is it doable? > I also have a DC-DC yh11068a module ( > https://dalmura.com.au/static/YH11068A.pdf > > Here in France, ebay is not used by companies to resell their used > equipment. Removing an item from an inventory requires tons of paperwork. > So, finding a power supply for an EDM machine is rather complicated. > > Le vendredi 21 avril 2023 à 23:41:38 UTC+2, Moses a écrit : > >> I've always just "unpoisoned" tubes with slightly higher current then >> normal, not higher voltage. A couple of hours to a few days usually fixes >> them for me. I don't think a 150-200% overdrive on the current will hurt it >> too much for a short duration. I've seen some tubes unpoisoned right in >> front of my eyes after just a few minutes at around double the current. >> >> I've used brand new tubes where some digits didn't light fully.. usually >> after a few days of normal usage, at normal current levels, they came back. >> I've always viewed this as normal. I figure they have been sitting unlit >> for decades, it may take a little while to get everything lit up. >> >> Regards, >> -Moses >> >> On Friday, April 21, 2023 at 1:19:55 PM UTC-7 Benoit Tourret wrote: >> >>> I don't know how to rise the intensity... >>> I wish I had a laboratory DC power supply, but mine stops at 30V. >>> so I put a NCH6300HV to raise the voltage. If I can adjust the voltage, >>> I cannot adjust anything else. >>> however I added a voltmeter and ammeter to check what I'm sending to the >>> tube. Do you know if there is an adjustable power supply that can be used >>> for our beloved tubes? >>> So, I regulate the voltage and I check that I do not exceed the desired >>> values. >>> >>> should I change the 32K resistor between the PS and the tube? could a >>> potentiometer be used? >>> >>> So I did see an improvement. but some need to be "heated". I of course >>> doesn't speak of temperature, but they need 10 to 20 seconds to get their >>> full glow, a bit like a neon tube with an old starter. >>> They are 52 years old now and never been used. >>> >>> Le vendredi 21 avril 2023 à 16:20:59 UTC+2, gregebert a écrit : >>> >>>> The IN-1 datasheet says 2.5mA typical operating current, so you should >>>> try cleaning the other 3 tubes at just under 3mA. The other 7 tubes might >>>> clean-up on their own at normal current if the usage is balanced. >>>> >>>> So did you see some improvement ? >>>> >>>> On Friday, April 21, 2023 at 12:14:05 AM UTC-7 Benoit Tourret wrote: >>>> >>>>> I ran each tube with 180V 2mA / two hours, turning each plate for 2 >>>>> minutes. >>>>> >>>>> on 10 tubes: >>>>> >>>>> 7 are OK >>>>> 3 are not perfect. >>>>> >>>>> I will wait to be able to lit them all together. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Le jeudi 20 avril 2023 à 01:27:40 UTC+2, gregebert a écrit : >>>>> >>>>>> I couldn't resist asking google Bard this question: Are IN-1 nixie >>>>>> tubes reliable ? >>>>>> Well, here's the answer. Feel free to laugh.....love the part about >>>>>> the filaments. Geez, maybe that's why I had so much trouble with mine ? >>>>>> >>>>>> IN-1 nixie tubes are generally reliable, but they can fail over time. >>>>>> The most common failure mode is a leak in the vacuum tube. This can >>>>>> happen >>>>>> due to a number of factors, including manufacturing defects, physical >>>>>> damage, or exposure to extreme temperatures. >>>>>> >>>>>> If a leak develops, the tube will slowly fill with air and the >>>>>> filaments will eventually burn out. This can happen over a period of >>>>>> months >>>>>> or even years. To prevent leaks, it is important to store IN-1 nixie >>>>>> tubes >>>>>> in a cool, dry place and to avoid dropping or banging them. >>>>>> >>>>>> Another potential failure mode is a failure of the heater filament. >>>>>> This can happen due to a number of factors, including overheating, >>>>>> overvoltage, or physical damage. If the heater filament fails, the tube >>>>>> will not light up. >>>>>> >>>>>> To prevent heater filament failures, it is important to use a >>>>>> regulated power supply and to avoid exceeding the maximum operating >>>>>> voltage. >>>>>> >>>>>> On Tuesday, April 18, 2023 at 2:03:54 PM UTC-7 gregebert wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> I never had an IN-1 run long enough to get poisoned. Mine developed >>>>>>> internal shorts, resulting in 2 numerals glowing at the same time. >>>>>>> From what I've heard, nixie degradation increases exponentially with >>>>>>> current, so you want to stay as close as possible to normal operating >>>>>>> current. Try running the worst digit continuously for a few hours at >>>>>>> 20% >>>>>>> higher current, and see if that helps. I was (briefly) drawn to the >>>>>>> IN-1 >>>>>>> over 10 years ago because of the large size for the low cost; I bought >>>>>>> a >>>>>>> case of 25 for around 40USD including shipping. Only a few survive >>>>>>> today >>>>>>> that weren't dissected or tortured in a microwave oven (yeah, pretty >>>>>>> hilarious but kinda toxic because of the bakelite). >>>>>>> >>>>>>> A few of the IN-18's in my clock have shown signs of poisoning even >>>>>>> though I run a cleansing routine for 1 hour every night. This is >>>>>>> most-visible on the first day of the month for the months digit, and it >>>>>>> can >>>>>>> take a few days to recover. This clock has 14 tubes; kinda ridiculous >>>>>>> but >>>>>>> it looks impressive. It was inspired by the movie "Tomorrowland", which >>>>>>> has >>>>>>> a brief scene with two 6-digit IN-18 clocks. I'm certain one of our >>>>>>> neonixie members is the creator of that clock (that was an invitation >>>>>>> for >>>>>>> you to take a well-deserved bow...). >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Tubes that run 0-9 during the day need no cleansing (unit seconds, >>>>>>> unit minutes, unit hours). Tubes the run 0-5 during the day are >>>>>>> cleansed by >>>>>>> running 6-9 (tens seconds, tens minutes). Tubes that are static, or >>>>>>> near >>>>>>> static (tens hours, month, day, year) run 0-9 for cleansing. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> The static tubes, notably the 4-digit year, show very little signs >>>>>>> of poisoning because I have swapped them around to put the >>>>>>> most-vulnerable-to-poisoning tubes where they run 0-9 during the day. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> I havn't seen any signs of poisoning on Burroughs tubes. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> On Tuesday, April 18, 2023 at 11:39:54 AM UTC-7 Benoit Tourret wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Hello, I have some IN-1 that seems to be poisoned. poisoned or >>>>>>>> rather oxided, as they seems to be really new. it is fine mesh from >>>>>>>> September 1971. >>>>>>>> two of them are fine after one or two day, tree other doesn't show >>>>>>>> any improvement. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> I read that I must overload them a while but how many and how long >>>>>>>> should I keep one digit on before light the next digit ? is it 1 >>>>>>>> second or >>>>>>>> one day... >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> by the way, as I read that this tube doesn't have mercury inside, >>>>>>>> can it be unpoisonned ? >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. 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