Hey Jared-

Like Jim, I had a channel that was doing exactly the same thing, and didn't think about it until just now reading his post... It may be completely unrelated to yours, but thought I would mention it at least. Has your console been re-capped recently? I had a channel in my Series II that suddenly started acting that way not long after a re-cap. It drove me nuts, I poured over that channel strip for hours at a time, to no avail... Eventually I found a spot at one of the new caps (I don't recall exactly where it was, it was near the eq section I think) where the traces looked to be shorted by solder, but it was awful close, enough that I wasn't sure if it really was or not. So, I decided to go ahead and remove the solder and reflow and see if it made a difference...and it certainly did! It fixed the problem completely. Apparently it was making just enough contact to cause a problem; curious that it worked ok for a while, but then started acting just like yours...

Anyway, don't know if it'll help but thought I'd throw it in just in case!

Adam

On Feb 8, 2010, at 11:05 AM, Jim wrote:



Hi Jared,

I had a channel with a very similar problem that drove me nuts for a while. Try replacing both of the diodes and see what happens. I didn't analyze the circuit to determine the failure mode of one of them failing, but it fixed the problem. Give it a shot and let me know. Good luck!

Best, Jim



At 08:11 PM 2/5/2010, you wrote:
Hi everyone

Ok I finally had some time to look at my misbehaving mic pre, and now I'm even more confused.

So after digging in a bit deeper this is what I've discovered.

Fist problem distorted noise with no input (peak light flashing) replacing the TL074 seemed to make a slight improvement. But the signal was still distorted but not as bad. So I reflowed some solder, I replaced the 100 ohm resistors feeding the chip, and the ones feeding the transistors, no change. Then I swapped the transistors from a spare channel no change. This was about the time I realized that the gain pot was not affecting the signal. It seemed to have fixed gain (It may have been this way I don't think swapping the transistors did this). By turning the pot its full range it only mad a slight change in sound the last 10% of its travel the sound got darker and that was all that i could hear changing. All of my testing has been with me talking into a 57 so not very scientific, and I may not be hearing something more obvious.

Looking at this circuit is confusing me so I think I need someone with some real knowledge to help guide away from replacing every component in the mic pre.

I have attached a copy of the schematic.

Sorry for the long post
thanks,
Jared
(612)802-3150


-----Original Message-----
>From: Ike Zimbel <[email protected]>
>Sent: Jan 26, 2010 2:55 PM
>To: [email protected]
>Subject: Re: NEOTEK:  Mic pre transistors
>
>Hi Matt,
> All of the documentation that I have seen says "factory selected" >on the 2SB737's, which are the only one of these transistors that I have
>seen (or at least noticed) in a Neotek mic pre. Incidentally, I have
>never seen one fail in a mic pre yet. Jared, I agree with Matt that you >should check all of the other components 1st, both for soldering issues
>and value. Have the caps been done?
>best,
>Ike
>
>On 1/26/2010 12:36 PM, Matt Syson wrote:
>> Hi Jared
>> All or some of these transistors are approaching obsolete but should
>> be obtainable by post from the internet.
>> I would suggest getting a bag of them (they are not expensive) then
>> you can match them using a multimeter for similar Hfe.
>> (note, don't hold them for long as the finger temperature affects gain!).
>> You could simply fit one and it will work but distortion would be
>> reduced by matching. I don't suppose Neotek matched them originally
>> though.
>> It may be worth running the multimeter over the whole circuit
>> comparing it to others (DC conditions) as there may be something else
>> amiss.
>> Matt S
>>
>> Jared wrote:
>>> Hello everyone
>>>
>>> I'm having a problem with a series 1 mic pre (just the mic pre, line
>>> in is fine). I'm getting a lot of noise and extremely distorted
>>> signal. Everything looks fine visually. I swapped the chip and that >>> didn't fix it. My next thought was that it could be caused by a bad >>> transistor on the front end of the circuit. So I did a little looking
>>> and now I'm a bit confused.
>>> It seems that I need either of these transistors: 2SAB737, 2SA991, or
>>> 2SA1084
>>>
>>> I'm sure their are others but this is what is in my console and the >>> 2SA1084 was written in some of the documentation that I have. Does >>> anyone have a lead on where these can be sourced or other replacement >>> options? Also what is the best way to match them? Can it be a simple
>>> DMM hFE test?
>>>
>>> Also maybe I'm going down the wrong path, any other thoughts about
>>> what could be causing this?
>>>
>>> Sorry for the long post,
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Jared
>>> ------
>>>
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>> ------
>>
>> View the list online at:
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>> The Neotek list is lovingly hosted by Catapult Web. Remember that any >> message or reply sent to the list will be automatically forwarded to
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>> Vive Le Neotek!
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>> Thanks.
>>
>>
>
>--
>Ike Zimbel
>Zimbel Audio Productions Ltd.
>Toronto
>416-720-0887
>
>"Studio House Calls". Authorized Warranty service for Allen& Heath, Clear-Com, Drawmer, Soundcraft, SPL and Yamaha. Repairs and upgrades to analog audio equipment including: AMEK, dbx, Neve, Neotek, MCI, Soundcraft and more. Ask about our RF Frequency co- ordination services!
>www.zimbelaudio.com
>
>------
>
>View the list online at: http://www.mail-archive.com/ [email protected]
>
>You can unsubscribe at anytime by sending an email to mailto:[email protected] with "unsubscribe neotek" in the message body. If you have any difficulties, or questions --please send an email to mailto:[email protected].
>
>The Neotek list is lovingly hosted by Catapult Web. Remember that any message or reply sent to the list will be automatically forwarded to all subscribers.
>
>Vive Le Neotek!
>
>Thanks.


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