Thanks Kyle,  isn't there some kind of sensor or 'little black box'  
above or near the battery that has to do with the N/gear indicator.   
That's what the Honda dealer told me (he showed me in the shop  
manual)?  But I can't find anything like that.  That's why I thought  
the black box under the tail piece with six wires going into it may  
have been that, Graham

On Feb 23, 2009, at 2:03 PM, Kyle Munz wrote:

> I can't help with your carb problems. You won't find anyone more  
> knowledgeable than Dennis on that subject anyways.
> I can help you with the gear indicator tho. I'll bet the problem is  
> in your gear indicator switch, whatever you found in the tail  
> section is most likely your brake light controller. Assuming your  
> 700S is similar to my 650 in this case you should have a rotary  
> type switch on the side of the transmission near your gear shift  
> lever just above the left foot peg. You need to carefully take that  
> apart, clean it, and put it back together. I took pictures when I  
> cleaned mine and posted them online http://munz.kicks-ass.net/ 
> nighthawk/?p=125.
> Your blinker problems is most likely a short somewhere. I'm not  
> sure what color wires the 700S uses but the best hint I got upon  
> joining this group is to remember that Honda switches the ground  
> wire and not the hot wire. Look for clean wires, unbroken  
> insulation, and clean contacts. You can always try swapping the  
> wiring with the right blinker to see if the problem follows the  
> wiring or stays with the blinker housing.
>
> -Kyle
>
> On Mon, Feb 23, 2009 at 1:16 PM, kiwi <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Blasted those tiny holes that allow the gas through when using the
> choke with compressed air and spent 2 hours reinstalling the carbs. It
> still took starting fluid to get the bike started BUT, not very much
> and the choke worked a little.  I'll see how it starts tomorrow when
> it is back to winter temperature.
> Second problem with this NH is the neutral/gear indicator.  It reads N
> all the time and won't show what gear the bike is in. I found a little
> black box under the tail section that I think is part of the N/gear
> indicator system.  Is there a way to check it?
> Third problem should be simple.  The left front turn signal is
> 'bright' when ignition is on but will not blink when  it should.  The
> others work as they should.  That left one shines a lot brighter than
> the right front when ignition is on.
>
> On Feb 22, 11:11 pm, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote:
> > I will assume your carb clean was a complete operation. Let's  
> examine how the choke works. The cable opens valves that will  
> permit raw fuel to be sucked into the motor during cranking. Now,  
> lets say that works fine.Your plugs should be wet after cranking  
> for a short while. Y-N ? The most common cause of the plugs being  
> dry after cranking is the throttle plates being open too far and  
> causing insufficient vacuum. Same as opening the throttle while  
> trying to start. When the intake air flow is too low, no fuel will  
> be drawn in from the choke circuit. If the plugs are wet, you're  
> flooding the motor.
> > We start here. Additional checks of compression and a leak-down  
> may be in order.
> > This may take time to resolve. Get at it.
> >
> > --- On Sun, 2/22/09, Graham Rogers <[email protected]> wrote:
> > From: Graham Rogers <[email protected]>
> > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Nighthawk S starting problem
> > To: [email protected]
> > Date: Sunday, February 22, 2009, 6:18 PM
> >
> > I have a 1986 Nighthawk S.  It ran before I got it but always took
> > starter fluid in the air filter to get it going.  I pulled the carbs
> > and thoroughly cleaned them and used to compressed air in all the
> > holes.  However the bike still will not start without stater fluid
> > and even then it takes along time with the fluid.  I noticed that
> > using the choke seemed to make no difference at all so, thinking  
> that
> > perhaps the choke isn't working at all I removed the carbs again
> > (they are terrible to remove) and did what I could toi ensure the
> > choke was working right.  The mechanism moves as it should and I  
> used
> > compressed air in the holes to the where I presume the choke opens.
> > Now, before I reinstall the carbs, any suggestions?  Could the
> > problem have been the choke or is there something else that would
> > cause the same problem.  By the way, once the bike was warmed up, it
> > ran fine - just when it's cold I have to use starting fluid,  Graham
>
>
>
> >


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