I don't know exactly where the batter is on the S, but on my 650 its behind the right sidecover, the only "black box"-ish type thing near there is the starter relay and fuse. That doesn't have anything to do with the gear indicator tho. The gear selector switch or whatever it's called is on the left side of my 650. It's right next to the gear shifter almost by necessity. It has a small cam with a metal rod in it, the switch fits over this and has a slot that the metal rod fits into, as you switch gears the cam rotates and changes the position of the switch, each position completes a different circuit. The gear indicator on your dash looks at this circuit to know which gear to display. Mine was completely random, if you're is neautral all the time it may be free wheeling in there. The answer was to remove the switch, carefully disassemble it, clean it, make sure the contacts are going where they're supposed to go, then put it back on. If you take your time and look at it it should make sense, if you have a service manual with the wiring diagram it'll make even more sense.
-Kyle On Mon, Feb 23, 2009 at 3:43 PM, Graham Rogers <[email protected]> wrote: > Thanks Kyle, isn't there some kind of sensor or 'little black box' above > or near the battery that has to do with the N/gear indicator. That's what > the Honda dealer told me (he showed me in the shop manual)? But I can't > find anything like that. That's why I thought the black box under the tail > piece with six wires going into it may have been that, Graham > > On Feb 23, 2009, at 2:03 PM, Kyle Munz wrote: > > I can't help with your carb problems. You won't find anyone more > knowledgeable than Dennis on that subject anyways. > I can help you with the gear indicator tho. I'll bet the problem is in your > gear indicator switch, whatever you found in the tail section is most likely > your brake light controller. Assuming your 700S is similar to my 650 in this > case you should have a rotary type switch on the side of the transmission > near your gear shift lever just above the left foot peg. You need to > carefully take that apart, clean it, and put it back together. I took > pictures when I cleaned mine and posted them online > http://munz.kicks-ass.net/nighthawk/?p=125. > Your blinker problems is most likely a short somewhere. I'm not sure what > color wires the 700S uses but the best hint I got upon joining this group is > to remember that Honda switches the ground wire and not the hot wire. Look > for clean wires, unbroken insulation, and clean contacts. You can always try > swapping the wiring with the right blinker to see if the problem follows the > wiring or stays with the blinker housing. > > -Kyle > > On Mon, Feb 23, 2009 at 1:16 PM, kiwi <[email protected]> wrote: > >> >> Blasted those tiny holes that allow the gas through when using the >> choke with compressed air and spent 2 hours reinstalling the carbs. It >> still took starting fluid to get the bike started BUT, not very much >> and the choke worked a little. I'll see how it starts tomorrow when >> it is back to winter temperature. >> Second problem with this NH is the neutral/gear indicator. It reads N >> all the time and won't show what gear the bike is in. I found a little >> black box under the tail section that I think is part of the N/gear >> indicator system. Is there a way to check it? >> Third problem should be simple. The left front turn signal is >> 'bright' when ignition is on but will not blink when it should. The >> others work as they should. That left one shines a lot brighter than >> the right front when ignition is on. >> >> On Feb 22, 11:11 pm, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote: >> > I will assume your carb clean was a complete operation. Let's examine >> how the choke works. The cable opens valves that will permit raw fuel to be >> sucked into the motor during cranking. Now, lets say that works fine.Your >> plugs should be wet after cranking for a short while. Y-N ? The most common >> cause of the plugs being dry after cranking is the throttle plates being >> open too far and causing insufficient vacuum. Same as opening the throttle >> while trying to start. When the intake air flow is too low, no fuel will be >> drawn in from the choke circuit. If the plugs are wet, you're flooding the >> motor. >> > We start here. Additional checks of compression and a leak-down may be >> in order. >> > This may take time to resolve. Get at it. >> > >> > --- On Sun, 2/22/09, Graham Rogers <[email protected]> wrote: >> > From: Graham Rogers <[email protected]> >> > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Nighthawk S starting problem >> > To: [email protected] >> > Date: Sunday, February 22, 2009, 6:18 PM >> > >> > I have a 1986 Nighthawk S. It ran before I got it but always took >> > starter fluid in the air filter to get it going. I pulled the carbs >> > and thoroughly cleaned them and used to compressed air in all the >> > holes. However the bike still will not start without stater fluid >> > and even then it takes along time with the fluid. I noticed that >> > using the choke seemed to make no difference at all so, thinking that >> > perhaps the choke isn't working at all I removed the carbs again >> > (they are terrible to remove) and did what I could toi ensure the >> > choke was working right. The mechanism moves as it should and I used >> > compressed air in the holes to the where I presume the choke opens. >> > Now, before I reinstall the carbs, any suggestions? Could the >> > problem have been the choke or is there something else that would >> > cause the same problem. By the way, once the bike was warmed up, it >> > ran fine - just when it's cold I have to use starting fluid, Graham >> >> > > > > > > > > --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. 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