*SNICKER* ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Hasslinger" <[email protected]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 6:25 PM Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Crank bearings
what could be more positive than helping someone see the errors of his ways. Now when it comes to putting it back together and filling the crankcase with oil make sure you use MY OIL... --- On Tue, 2/24/09, ZMAN <[email protected]> wrote: > From: ZMAN <[email protected]> > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Crank bearings > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <[email protected]> > Date: Tuesday, February 24, 2009, 5:45 PM > Ok. ok. It is going to come apart call of the torch mob! (I > knew I was > going to get flamed for this) Lets keep this discussion > positive..... > > The question on the table is how do I transfer the pretty > color > designations to actual part numbers? > > Anyone? > > > On Feb 24, 1:34 pm, "Creative Residential > Designs" > <[email protected]> wrote: > > I agree...if you are going to take all of that time to > pull it apart, then > > do whatever you can to replace parts. My theory: add > up the time it takes to > > take it apart the first time and not do it > right...then times that by 2.5 > > for taking it apart the second time and finally doing > it right. Being caught > > off of your bike this coming riding season will hurt > even worse. HotrodMamma > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Mark Hasslinger" > <[email protected]> > > To: <[email protected]> > > Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 11:43 AM > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Crank bearings > > > > so you take some short cuts and "limit your labor > time on this" and end up > > with an engine with new whatever you renewed and old > bearings and worn > > surfaces from what ever you saved with "limited > your labor time on this". > > WHY BOTHER! save your self a lot more time and quite > now. > > > > --- On Mon, 2/23/09, ZMAN > <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > From: ZMAN <[email protected]> > > > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Crank bearings > > > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" > <[email protected]> > > > Date: Monday, February 23, 2009, 8:48 PM > > > I need some help with my crank bearings. I am > doing a > > > rebuild of a > > > salvage motor. Let me preface my question with > this: > > > "I know that I > > > SHOULD take this motor apart and check everything > properly, > > > but I am > > > trying to limit my labor time on this." > > > > > OK I have the oil pan, cylinder head, cylinder, > and pistons > > > all > > > pulled. So I am looking at the crankcase with the > con-rods > > > moving > > > freely. Well, almost. The #3 is a bit to sticky > for my > > > liking. So I > > > take the rod off (you can get to it through the > oil pan > > > opening). I > > > put the bearing halves back in the opening of the > con-rod > > > and I see > > > that the bearing has been warped, because is is > out of > > > round with the > > > opening of the con-rod. So I want to replace the > bearing, > > > of course. > > > The con-rod is marked with a 2 and D. The old > bearing > > > thickness is > > > 0.056" and is marked AK16B. I am looking at > my Clymer > > > manual and it > > > states that I have to cross reference these > markings with > > > markings on > > > the end of the crankshaft. The result should be > one of 5 > > > bearing > > > sizes, and 3 of these sizes will work for a #2 > rod and they > > > are > > > called: green, brown, or black. "This is > great," > > > I said. "I will just > > > measure the old one and order a new one." > The > > > measurement of my old > > > bearing is quite a bit less than the thicknesses > listed in > > > the book, > > > so I know that it is bad. > > > > > So let me boil this down to the questions that I > have: > > > > > 1) How do these color designations transfer to > the actual > > > parts? There > > > are 5 colors listed in the Clymer, and 6 lettered > bearings > > > in the > > > parts fiche (A-F)? Does anyone have the thickness > specs of > > > the A-F > > > bearings (maybe from the Honda shop manual)? > > > > > 2) Is the old bearing small and warped because of > excessive > > > wear? What > > > caused this, and how can I prevent it from > happening again? > > > (BTW, the > > > crank journal is in very good shape) Should I be > looking > > > for a clogged > > > oil passage? > > > > > 3) How can I establish what size bearing to use > without > > > taking the > > > case apart? I am having a hard time getting a > caliper / > > > micrometer in > > > the cylinder hole to get a good read, and my best > > > improvised measuring > > > device is no match for the .0001 precision needed > here. > > > > > 4) Are OEM bearings sold in pairs/matching sets, > or do you > > > have to buy > > > 2 for each con-rod? I was thinking about maybe > trying all 3 > > > sizes > > > rated for a #2 con-rod, and using the one that > worked the > > > best. This > > > would not be fun if I have to buy 2 of each size > @ $9 each. > > > > > 5) OR......should I just split the cases and stop > > > belly-aching? > > > > > Thanks for the advice! > > > > > ZMAN > --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
