I agree...if you are going to take all of that time to pull it apart, then 
do whatever you can to replace parts. My theory: add up the time it takes to 
take it apart the first time and not do it right...then times that by 2.5 
for taking it apart the second time and finally doing it right. Being caught 
off of your bike this coming riding season will hurt even worse. HotrodMamma

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark Hasslinger" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 11:43 AM
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Crank bearings



so you take some short cuts and "limit your labor time on this" and end up 
with an engine with new whatever you renewed and old bearings and worn 
surfaces from what ever you saved with "limited your labor time on this". 
WHY BOTHER! save your self a lot more time and quite now.


--- On Mon, 2/23/09, ZMAN <[email protected]> wrote:

> From: ZMAN <[email protected]>
> Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Crank bearings
> To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <[email protected]>
> Date: Monday, February 23, 2009, 8:48 PM
> I need some help with my crank bearings. I am doing a
> rebuild of a
> salvage motor. Let me preface my question with this:
> "I know that I
> SHOULD take this motor apart and check everything properly,
> but I am
> trying to limit my labor time on this."
>
> OK I have the oil pan, cylinder head, cylinder, and pistons
> all
> pulled. So I am looking at the crankcase with the con-rods
> moving
> freely. Well, almost. The #3 is a bit to sticky for my
> liking. So I
> take the rod off (you can get to it through the oil pan
> opening). I
> put the bearing halves back in the opening of the con-rod
> and I see
> that the bearing has been warped, because is is out of
> round with the
> opening of the con-rod. So I want to replace the bearing,
> of course.
> The con-rod is marked with a 2 and D. The old bearing
> thickness is
> 0.056" and is marked AK16B. I am looking at my Clymer
> manual and it
> states that I have to cross reference these markings with
> markings on
> the end of the crankshaft. The result should be one of 5
> bearing
> sizes, and 3 of these sizes will work for a #2 rod and they
> are
> called: green, brown, or black. "This is great,"
> I said. "I will just
> measure the old one and order a new one." The
> measurement of my old
> bearing is quite a bit less than the thicknesses listed in
> the book,
> so I know that it is bad.
>
> So let me boil this down to the questions that I have:
>
> 1) How do these color designations transfer to the actual
> parts? There
> are 5 colors listed in the Clymer, and 6 lettered bearings
> in the
> parts fiche (A-F)? Does anyone have the thickness specs of
> the A-F
> bearings (maybe from the Honda shop manual)?
>
> 2) Is the old bearing small and warped because of excessive
> wear? What
> caused this, and how can I prevent it from happening again?
> (BTW, the
> crank journal is in very good shape) Should I be looking
> for a clogged
> oil passage?
>
> 3) How can I establish what size bearing to use without
> taking the
> case apart? I am having a hard time getting a caliper /
> micrometer in
> the cylinder hole to get a good read, and my best
> improvised measuring
> device is no match for the .0001 precision needed here.
>
> 4) Are OEM bearings sold in pairs/matching sets, or do you
> have to buy
> 2 for each con-rod? I was thinking about maybe trying all 3
> sizes
> rated for a #2 con-rod, and using the one that worked the
> best. This
> would not be fun if I have to buy 2 of each size @ $9 each.
>
> 5) OR......should I just split the cases and stop
> belly-aching?
>
> Thanks for the advice!
>
> ZMAN
>
>




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