You don't have the factory manual I presume. You'll need one soon.
Clymer is like the comic book version of the real thing unfortunately.
Dennis...can you help this fella? I really would like to see you get your 
bike together properly too. I want to hear some great stories this summer 
about your road trips.
I just replaced my starter today, put some fresh gas in, ran some Seafoam 
through and she runs like she missed the open road! Tomorrow I lube my 
cables, change the oil and I'm gone. I digress and dream.....

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "ZMAN" <[email protected]>
To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 4:45 PM
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Crank bearings



Ok. ok. It is going to come apart call of the torch mob! (I knew I was
going to get flamed for this) Lets keep this discussion positive.....

The question on the table is how do I transfer the pretty color
designations to actual part numbers?

Anyone?


On Feb 24, 1:34 pm, "Creative Residential Designs"
<[email protected]> wrote:
> I agree...if you are going to take all of that time to pull it apart, then
> do whatever you can to replace parts. My theory: add up the time it takes 
> to
> take it apart the first time and not do it right...then times that by 2.5
> for taking it apart the second time and finally doing it right. Being 
> caught
> off of your bike this coming riding season will hurt even worse. 
> HotrodMamma
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mark Hasslinger" <[email protected]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 11:43 AM
> Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Crank bearings
>
> so you take some short cuts and "limit your labor time on this" and end up
> with an engine with new whatever you renewed and old bearings and worn
> surfaces from what ever you saved with "limited your labor time on this".
> WHY BOTHER! save your self a lot more time and quite now.
>
> --- On Mon, 2/23/09, ZMAN <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > From: ZMAN <[email protected]>
> > Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Crank bearings
> > To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <[email protected]>
> > Date: Monday, February 23, 2009, 8:48 PM
> > I need some help with my crank bearings. I am doing a
> > rebuild of a
> > salvage motor. Let me preface my question with this:
> > "I know that I
> > SHOULD take this motor apart and check everything properly,
> > but I am
> > trying to limit my labor time on this."
>
> > OK I have the oil pan, cylinder head, cylinder, and pistons
> > all
> > pulled. So I am looking at the crankcase with the con-rods
> > moving
> > freely. Well, almost. The #3 is a bit to sticky for my
> > liking. So I
> > take the rod off (you can get to it through the oil pan
> > opening). I
> > put the bearing halves back in the opening of the con-rod
> > and I see
> > that the bearing has been warped, because is is out of
> > round with the
> > opening of the con-rod. So I want to replace the bearing,
> > of course.
> > The con-rod is marked with a 2 and D. The old bearing
> > thickness is
> > 0.056" and is marked AK16B. I am looking at my Clymer
> > manual and it
> > states that I have to cross reference these markings with
> > markings on
> > the end of the crankshaft. The result should be one of 5
> > bearing
> > sizes, and 3 of these sizes will work for a #2 rod and they
> > are
> > called: green, brown, or black. "This is great,"
> > I said. "I will just
> > measure the old one and order a new one." The
> > measurement of my old
> > bearing is quite a bit less than the thicknesses listed in
> > the book,
> > so I know that it is bad.
>
> > So let me boil this down to the questions that I have:
>
> > 1) How do these color designations transfer to the actual
> > parts? There
> > are 5 colors listed in the Clymer, and 6 lettered bearings
> > in the
> > parts fiche (A-F)? Does anyone have the thickness specs of
> > the A-F
> > bearings (maybe from the Honda shop manual)?
>
> > 2) Is the old bearing small and warped because of excessive
> > wear? What
> > caused this, and how can I prevent it from happening again?
> > (BTW, the
> > crank journal is in very good shape) Should I be looking
> > for a clogged
> > oil passage?
>
> > 3) How can I establish what size bearing to use without
> > taking the
> > case apart? I am having a hard time getting a caliper /
> > micrometer in
> > the cylinder hole to get a good read, and my best
> > improvised measuring
> > device is no match for the .0001 precision needed here.
>
> > 4) Are OEM bearings sold in pairs/matching sets, or do you
> > have to buy
> > 2 for each con-rod? I was thinking about maybe trying all 3
> > sizes
> > rated for a #2 con-rod, and using the one that worked the
> > best. This
> > would not be fun if I have to buy 2 of each size @ $9 each.
>
> > 5) OR......should I just split the cases and stop
> > belly-aching?
>
> > Thanks for the advice!
>
> > ZMAN



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