Maybe the way to go is with the spacers like Dennis suggested, and the oem 
clutch plates.



Stanley

--- On Sat, 2/6/10, Stephen D'Auria <[email protected]> wrote:


From: Stephen D'Auria <[email protected]>
Subject: RE: [Nighthawk Lovers] Question 1991-2003 CB750 Clutch
To: [email protected]
Date: Saturday, February 6, 2010, 12:07 PM




I am not going to ride with a jerky clutch! My bike (my subconscious) would 
think I was a jerk! The idea is to make her soft and smooth but able to grip 
like a vise.


Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 09:04:52 -0800
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Question 1991-2003 CB750 Clutch
To: [email protected]






Yes- and not to mention the added shock to the reciprocating parts of the 
engine from the sudden jerk of a heavy clutch.  In VW Beetles, Gene Berg sold a 
device that gave a slight cushion to the engagement of a racing clutch to 
soften the blow.  Not just to the crankshaft, but the relatively soft magnesium 
alloy case as well.
You see, the crank is forged, rather than cast, so that it can flex without 
breaking.  A certain amount of flex is required, because of the flexibility of 
the case.  A cast crankshaft would break from the flexing; indeed, even some 
forged ones do from time to time.  It is rare, and the only one I have knowlege 
of personally, the engine still ran, although with a wierd noise and rhythm.  
But it ran!!
Upon teardown, lo and behold:  broken crank!










Stanley

--- On Fri, 2/5/10, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote:


From: Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Question 1991-2003 CB750 Clutch
To: [email protected]
Date: Friday, February 5, 2010, 10:16 PM




#yiv1164868242 .ExternalClass #ecxyiv1519280553 DIV
{}



My simple answer is to replace with OEM. It lasted 23k and won't have the 
problems of an aftermarket clutch. A simple boost for the springs is one spark 
plug washer under each spring. No more, just one. Heavy springs are a strain on 
the clutch cable and make for jerky starts. Nasty clutches are for racers, not 
street bikes. They get old fast. Hard riding makes for grooves worn on the 
clutch basket, which in turn makes for a less than smooth operation. Do what 
you want, I just don't care for aftermarket clutches. Put enough in bikes in my 
time... Proper adjustment makes for long life on the OEM. 





From: Stephen D'Auria <[email protected]>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Fri, February 5, 2010 2:43:27 PM
Subject: RE: [Nighthawk Lovers] Question 1991-2003 CB750 Clutch



#yiv1164868242 .ExternalClass #ecxyiv1519280553 .ecxhmmessage P
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#yiv1164868242 .ExternalClass #ecxyiv1519280553
{font-size:10pt;font-family:Verdana;}

Thinking about this more. Would it be better to keep the stock plates and go 
with some heavier springs? I really want this thing to stick in the high RPM 
range mind you...
 
Reading reviews on the Barnett stuff... doesn't look good... 
 


From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Question 1991-2003 CB750 Clutch
Date: Fri, 5 Feb 2010 11:30:50 -0800



#yiv1164868242 .ExternalClass #ecxyiv1519280553 .ecxExternalClass 
.ecxecxhmmessage P
{padding:0px;}
#yiv1164868242 .ExternalClass #ecxyiv1519280553 .ecxExternalClass 
body.ecxecxhmmessage
{font-size:10pt;font-family:Verdana;}

I am looking for the best clutch kit on the market. I do a lot of sport riding 
on CA-2 with my hawk and it is time for a new clutch. It still has the 
stocker with about 23k on it. It is slipping too much and I know it is just the 
clutch not the oil I am using... time for a new one. Looking for the best of 
the best regardless of price. I am in love with this bike and it deserves 
nothing less! Any suggestions?
 
All I seem to find are those Barnett clutch kits... are they any good?
 
Once I get the parts I can document the rebuild in case any of you should want 
to do the same. :D
 
Thank you very much! 
 
Peace and grease
~Aldo



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