Like he said - try tne EZ out again.  Use PB Blaster to help break it loose.  
And check on how deep the hole is by removing one of the other studs 
(CAREFULLY) 
and sticking a toothpick or something in the hole until it bottoms out, and 
check the depth in the stud in question.  If you can drill completely through 
the broken stud it will help because you can get the penetrating oil in 
underneath the critter, and wash away some of the rust holding it in.
If you don't know how to get the stud out: use two nuts on the stud; tighten 
them together and then turn to remove.  If it doesn't twist willingly, spray a 
little more blaster and with the nuts just a bit above the tip of the stud, rap 
with a light hammer while twisting the stud.  And don't just turn to loosen, 
rock it back and forth until it moves freely.
I have a buddy who can blast broken studs out of a head with an acetylene torch 
without damaging the threads (well, maybe a little) and you just chase them to 
remove debris.  

I would put the new stud back in the hole in question, with a little 
threadlock.  That is, after using something like Brakleen to degrease it.
Reason?  Come time to remove a stud again, it will not be corroded, and will 
release with a little heat.
Broken studs are a problem for most guys working on Beetles who are impatient 
to 
get them out.  I had the experience myself now and then, until an old timer 
showed me how to work them out.  The Germans used a good quality steel, but not 
stainless.  Of course, in 25,000 or 30,000 miles it is going to corrode, 
especially being in aluminum.  After all, it was just a Beetle, not a Porsche...
I have managed to remove studs, even with little or no thread left, without 
breaking them off since.  But my buddy removed one for me that was broken off 
one time, with his torch.  In aluminum, mind you.  He had dropped the head on 
the old, brittle stud and it broke, of course... 
I was impressed.
Stanley




________________________________
From: paul annen <[email protected]>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Fri, July 16, 2010 9:57:23 AM
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Colortune and Exhaust Stud Extraction

i would try the ez out again


On Fri, Jul 16, 2010 at 10:40 AM, David Cummings 
<[email protected]> wrote:

Two things - anyone have a morgan colortune in the MD area I could
>borrow? 90% sure my bike was jetted by the P.O. and is running rich,
>but I want to verify before messing with the exhaust.
>
>Secondly, speaking of the exhaust - one of my 8 exhuast studs is
>broken clean off just below the surface of the block. I neglected to
>do anything about it when I had the engine out of the frame, and would
>like to replace the studs before swapping exhausts. I tried an EZ-out
>but it was probably the wrong size or I didn't drill far enough and it
>had no purchase, just didn't grip.
>
>I've read one of the most sure-fire ways to remove siezed bolts is
>with a stick welder and a special rod. I have the first, but not the
>second and very little welding experience. I'd be worried about
>sticking the rod to the threads. Anyone have any experience with this?
>Or know of  a good welder who'd be willing to do the work with the
>motor in the frame?
>
>Thanks,
>-Dave
>
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