Not so that they all do it, so your advisors are blowin' smoke. You have some wear or damage somewhere. Since the bike has only 10k on the clock, I'd suspect the latter.
Here are a few things you can do yourself to help pinpoint the cause (no tools and requires very little aptitude -- more like a pre-flight but a bit more hands on): Straddle the bike, side and center stands up, apply the hand brake hard and push-pull (with a fair amount of gusto) back and forth, while watching the steering head, then upper/lower fork clamps, and finally the axle, trying to see and/or feel a (maybe infintesimal) amount of movement in any of those components. There should be none. Center stand down and with a co-pilot sitting on the pillion to raise the front wheel in the air, move the handlebars very slowly, side to side, lock to lock, feeling for roughness or "notchiness" somewhere in the middle. Indicates worn/damaged steering head bearings. Wheel still in the air, co-pilot still in place, grasp top and bottom of front wheel from the side and alternately push-pull, looking/ feeling for looseness in wheel bearings. Repeat from the front, pushing forward and back. There should no perceptible movement in any direction. Same scenario (wheel in the air), hold a grease pencil (felt tip marker, kid's crayon) against one fork, parallel to the ground and at the same height as the rim of the wheel. Spin the wheel hard and begin inching the marking device toward the rim. When it barely makes contact, stop. Marks will indicate out of balance, misaligned or bent rim. Repeat, with a piece of chalk, on the tire itself, testing for same indications. Last one requires a tool (but still very little aptitude). Center or side stand down (dismiss the co-pilot, unless he/she is just nosy and wants to watch). Remove the seat. Remove one bolt located at the rear of the gas tank (borrow a crescent wrench from someone and ask them how to use it 8-)). The tank is held in place with two rubber covered bumpers and slides rearward. It's snug, wiggle it side-to- side and pull back on it. Not far, an inch or so will do. Any more is above your pay grade, there are fuel and vacuum hoses, mysterious wires, and complicated machinery underneath. You want just enough room between the front of the tank and the steering head for a visual inspection of the welds around the steering head and the top frame rail. Using a flashlight, look for telltale signs of paint flaked off the top rail and/or the sides of the steering head. They will look more like half-inch or so parallel scratches made with something like a screwdriver, rather than flakes. The color underneath will be lighter than the finish paint, maybe white or light grey. These are caused by compression of the steel underneath, caused by a possible front end collision. Similar marks may be on the sides of the steering head, indicating possible twisting type collision. Ditto the swing arm, just rear of its pivot point, both sides, if subjected to a twisting type collision. Hopefully, you'll find the problem before you get to that last part. I saved it for last, cuz it's the priciest fix. On Sep 20, 1:13 am, Swampfox61 <[email protected]> wrote: > I realize im new and heck but I ad to CAD and had alot of hangups with > it. > Ill keep working the problem. > Speaking of problems the old 55 coast down to 35 handlebar wobble is > apparently here to stay. Pressure was good shocks just redone, > triplehead redone for $80 . > Any other ideas? > > Every tech I talk to says they all do it from goldwings to CB750 > > Thanks > Very nice site! > Regards > Tom -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected]. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en.
