Indian head gasket shelac (SP?) Works great for holding a gasket to one surface during assembly. Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message----- From: "Hanghank" <[email protected]> Sender: [email protected] Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 10:08:01 To: <[email protected]> Reply-To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] The dreaded "Discontinued" is chewing on my ankles Another way to “mark” the gasket material is to take a small non-metallic (plastic?) hammer and tap over and around the gasket to imprint the gasket with the cutting lines. It is best to hold it in position by putting two or three bolts through some premade holes. If very narrow, it can be cut wider than final on the outside and trimmed after assembly. If difficult to hold in position, thread can be used to tie the gasket to one surface and the thread can be left or removed once in correct final position. From: Allen Thomas Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2012 9:02 AM To: Nightwawk Lovers Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] The dreaded "Discontinued" is chewing on my ankles I wasn't saying that wet gasket material is easier to cut. The oil trace gives you the outline of the part. Since its impossible to trace the inside dimensions you would have to do a lot of fitting and trimming otherwise. Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Kurt Nolte <[email protected]> Sender: [email protected] Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 03:14:54 -0400 To: <[email protected]> ReplyTo: [email protected] Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] The dreaded "Discontinued" is chewing on my ankles I usually use a heavy shot of WD instead of oil, but I do concede the point that a wet part makes the cutting much easier. A good sharp exacto blade and a cutting mat make it easy, too. It's just a lot of extra work, is all. :p I'm feeling a bit lazy. Just an FYI, for what really amounts to a complete overhaul of this bike, with mods (in one area extensive), I'm up to a pricetag of $3k. If I cut the EFI ambition out of it and rebuild the carburetors, we're at $2300. This includes things like tires, pads/shoes, and does NOT include any projected "returns" on parts removed in the mod process and sold. Having to totally rebuild the forks including tubes is slightly painful... I'm projected to spend slightly more on the front forks than I am on the entire rear end swap! Kurt On Sat, Apr 28, 2012 at 1:02 AM, Allen Thomas <[email protected]> wrote: Paper gaskets, they will seal better. Hint put some oil on the part then set the part on the paper and it will leave oil in its shape, which makes cutting the gasket easier. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected]. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected]. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected]. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected]. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en.
