Another trick is to lube the inside rim of the boots and outside
throat of the carbs with something like WD40 or Armor All to ease the
connection.

Pods are a bad idea unless you like constantly fiddling with the air
fuel mix.  The air box is a plenum that balances flow and volume
across all four carbs so that, once synched, they stay that way a good
long while.

On Jun 20, 5:00 pm, Kyle Munz <[email protected]> wrote:
> Trick is to put the carbs on the bike first, then clamp the boots onto the
> carbs using the heat gun, then use a ratchet strap run from the front of
> the bike around the back of the airbox to cinch it forward and tighten it
> all down.
> The 3rd port on the petcock is just a vent for the back side of the
> diaphragm. It should be the one pointed downwards to keep gunk out of it.
>
> -Kyle
>
>
>
> On Wed, Jun 20, 2012 at 3:40 PM, JJ <[email protected]> wrote:
> > I had an inclination the throttle linkage was screwy.
> > What do cold start valves look like?
> > The idle stop screw has the black knob right?
> > I think some difficulty has come up because I put the boots on the carbs
> > first. It's difficult to maneuver the air box onto the boots this way.
> > There's a metal bar on the air box side of the boots.
> > I know I'm a heretic when I say I'm tempted to experiment with pod filters
> > since I'll have to sync the carbs and stuff. It might be nice to build
> > storage space where the air box and battery are.
> > Also, there's a third port in the petcock.  One is for the fuel line, one
> > for the vacuum line to the intake boot, the other is just for air right?
> > Looks like it should have a hose connected to it.
>
> > On Tuesday, May 22, 2012 8:36:43 PM UTC-7, JJ wrote:
>
> >> I want to boil carbs in lemon juice to remove all the gunk.  What do you
> >> think I should do with what I've pointed out?
>
> >> Jason
>
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