After 40 years as a Sears Customer Service and Repair Manager, I can give you 
1,000 (est.) examples of when the part’s that failed in a similar situation are 
not necessarily the part’s that have failed in this situation.

In my opinion, replacing the relay is a premature reaction/ejaculation.  It may 
be good.  (The relay: ejaculation is always good!) 
You just don’t know yet. (about the relay; ejaculation: see previous comment)

Jumping the relay:  create an artificial path from the battery cable to the 
starter cable that bypasses the starting circuits on your M/C.

Use a screwdriver -  or two crossed screwdrivers – or a jumper cables to 
provide a current path around the relay.  Expect sparks. 
If it doesn’t crank, you have a problem with the battery and/or the starter/or 
the connections from battery to relay/ground.
If it does crank – and well – you have a problem with your starting circuits or 
relay and not your battery or your starter.

Using a multi-meter to check for voltage presence will not reveal a 
poor/weak/dirty connection that fails when heavier loads are put on the circuit.
A multi-meter by design does not put a “load” on that circuit/connection, and 
may lead you to a false conclusion. 
For instance, checking for voltage present at a battery should be done when a 
load is present, such as cranking or at least with lights on.
Use your multi-meter to confirm the presence of 12 volts(?) across the battery 
posts – best – or cable connections, with the ignition/lights on.
Use your multi-meter to confirm the presence of the voltage found above from 
the battery cable connection on the relay to a reliable ground point.
Zero volts at the battery cable/relay connection to ground indicates a failed 
connection from your battery. 
A difference of 1 volt or more than what was present across the battery posts 
indicates a poor connection. 
Another good indication of a weak battery or poor connections is weak lights.  
The lighting circuit is disconnected during cranking.
Remove, clean and/or replace the cables.

Check for the voltage present at the starter relay output/starter connection to 
a reliable good ground point. 
When the starter circuit is not engaged, there should be 0 volts.  
When the starter circuit is engaged, 12 volts(?) present at the  relay 
output/starter connection to a reliable good ground point indicates that your 
relay, battery, and starter circuits are good.  You should be able to hear a 
pronounced clicking from the relay when the starter button is pressed.
If there is no clicking from the relay, voltage present at the relay 
output/starter connection would be expected to be zero.  They click!
In the starter circuit are the battery and it’s connections to the relay and 
ground, including the starting circuit, which includes: ignition switch, clutch 
and gear position switches, engine kill switch (which interrupts voltage to 
ignition and starter circuits, but not lights.

Before you knee-jerk and replace the relay, check out your system.  Save time, 
money and frustration.
Of course, replacing the relay unnecessarily would also confirm that it was not 
your problem................  ;~)

The chart sent previously by Allen is extremely useful for charging system 
problems.
Use this.
http://www.google.com/url?q=http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf&sa=U&ei=d1UTUvy-CpDeyQGIsYHQDw&ved=0CAoQFjAA&sig2=4qnVjc2M-KJ95k5AdRusfA&usg=AFQjCNHEb214wWgcJpnNMYwJj0n_W1b7_w
 


From: Jeff 
Sent: Thursday, August 22, 2013 7:55 AM
To: [email protected] 
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Finished putting together the bike but it won't 
start

Thanks for the list of where I can buy it. I'm ordering one just in case
What do you mean by jump the selenoid?
The fuse is still fine, I did a visual and multimeter test on it.


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