I would add to this comment "If it doesn’t crank, you have a problem with the battery and/or the starter/or the connections from battery to relay/ground." or motor is locked up
On Thu, Aug 22, 2013 at 11:58 AM, Allen Thomas <[email protected]>wrote: > Good write up! The only thing I would add is that you can use the > multi-meter to check Ohms (resistance) between the various circuits to find > poor connections. Any wire should have resistance in the milliohm range. If > you have an amp meter even better. > Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T > ------------------------------ > *From: * "Hanghank" <[email protected]> > *Sender: * [email protected] > *Date: *Thu, 22 Aug 2013 09:27:29 -0500 > *To: *<[email protected]> > *ReplyTo: * [email protected] > *Subject: *[Nighthawk Lovers] Finished putting together the bike but it > won't start > > After 40 years as a Sears Customer Service and Repair Manager, I can > give you 1,000 (est.) examples of when the part’s that failed in a similar > situation are not necessarily the part’s that have failed in this situation. > > In my opinion, replacing the relay is a premature reaction/ejaculation. > It may be good. (The relay: ejaculation is always good!) > You just don’t know yet. (about the relay; ejaculation: see previous > comment) > > *Jumping the relay:* create an artificial path from the battery cable to > the starter cable that bypasses the starting circuits on your M/C. > > Use a screwdriver - or two crossed screwdrivers – or a jumper cables to > provide a current path around the relay. Expect sparks. > If it doesn’t crank, you have a problem with the battery and/or the > starter/or the connections from battery to relay/ground. > If it does crank – and well – you have a problem with your starting > circuits or relay and *not* your battery or your starter. > > Using a multi-meter to check for voltage presence will not reveal a > poor/weak/dirty connection that fails when heavier loads are put on the > circuit. > A multi-meter by design does not put a “load” on that circuit/connection, > and may lead you to a false conclusion. > For instance, checking for voltage present at a battery should be done > when a load is present, such as cranking or at least with lights on. > Use your multi-meter to confirm the presence of 12 volts(?) across the > battery posts – best – or cable connections, with the ignition/lights on. > Use your multi-meter to confirm the presence of the voltage found above > from the battery cable connection on the relay to a reliable ground point. > Zero volts at the battery cable/relay connection to ground indicates a > failed connection from your battery. > A difference of 1 volt or more than what was present across the battery > posts indicates a poor connection. > Another good indication of a weak battery or poor connections is weak > lights. The lighting circuit is disconnected during cranking. > Remove, clean and/or replace the cables. > > Check for the voltage present at the starter relay *output*/starter > connection to a reliable good ground point. > When the starter circuit is *not* engaged, there should be 0 volts. > When the starter circuit *is* engaged, 12 volts(?) present at the relay > output/starter connection to a reliable good ground point indicates that > your relay, battery, and starter circuits are good. You should be able to > hear a pronounced clicking from the relay when the starter button is > pressed. > If there is no clicking from the relay, voltage present at the relay > output/starter connection would be expected to be zero. They click! > In the starter circuit are the battery and it’s connections to the relay > and ground, including the starting circuit, which includes: ignition > switch, clutch and gear position switches, engine kill switch (which > interrupts voltage to ignition and starter circuits, *but not lights*. > > Before you knee-jerk and replace the relay, check out your system. Save > time, money and frustration. > Of course, replacing the relay unnecessarily would also confirm that it > was *not* your problem................ *;~)* > ** > The chart sent previously by Allen is extremely useful for charging system > problems. > Use this. > > http://www.google.com/url?q=http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf&sa=U&ei=d1UTUvy-CpDeyQGIsYHQDw&ved=0CAoQFjAA&sig2=4qnVjc2M-KJ95k5AdRusfA&usg=AFQjCNHEb214wWgcJpnNMYwJj0n_W1b7_w > > > *From:* Jeff <[email protected]> > *Sent:* Thursday, August 22, 2013 7:55 AM > *To:* [email protected] > *Subject:* [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Finished putting together the bike but > it won't start > > Thanks for the list of where I can buy it. I'm ordering one just in case > What do you mean by jump the selenoid? > The fuse is still fine, I did a visual and multimeter test on it. > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to [email protected]. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to [email protected]. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
