> To clarify, I am referring to the key switch (it's labelled "ignition
switch" in Clymer's wiring diagram). And yes, I've already taken out the
key lock/switch assembly, tried to order a replacement for the electrical
component ("Base Contact", Honda part #35101-MBV-003), and been told Honda
has discontinued the part. From your pictures, Kyle, it looks like the
90's switches are different from the 80's model.
Honda likes using parts from the bin for different bikes, despite a
different part number.
I wouldn't be surprised to discover a 90s CBR base contact would fit, and
just have too many wires/alternate contacts.
> Grounding seems like another good check. The path from plugs to battery
negative was fine... I'll have to pull the tank again to check the coils.
Or should I check (also) ground at the ignition control module? I'm a
little confused about the ignition control module, actually. From the
wiring diagram, it looks like the ignition coils' primary wiring is
grounded through the ignition control module and takes positive from the
battery through the engine stop (kill) switch. However, I thought that (1)
the bike had capacitor discharge ignition (CDI) and (2) ignition coils
using CDI took primary coil positive from the ignition control module
(where the charged capacitor lives) and primary coil negative was directly
grounded. What am I missing?
The control box grounds the coils' primary windings, and breaks ground to
fire them. Any vehicle with coils doesn't have true capacitor discharge
ignition; the whole point of CapacitorDI was to ditch the coils, after all.
CDI can _also_ stand for "computerized direct ignition," which is another
name for any engine firing scheme without a distributor but still using
coils and some sort of pickup.
> Unfortunately, I can't tell which cylinder or pair is misfiring, so I'm
not sure how to track down an issue with the coils themselves, beyond
measuring primary/secondary resistance (which I ought to do...).
If it's not related to one coil, ie a bad supply, it will float from
cylinder to cylinder.
>
> Relay mods for coils, etc. are something I've thought about doing. I
guess I need to correct my about confusion of ignition control before
attempting that. The high resistance at the key/ignition switch seems like
an elephant in the room, though, since that's effecting every circuit on
the bike.
Yes. 3.6 ohms across a switch is terrible and needs to be addressed.
Kurt
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