Well the engine didn't run at all prior to me cleaning the carbs and it
wouldn't run either after I cleaned them, full choke or not. The only way I
could get some pop would be to spray starter fluid directly into the intake
after removing the carbs while cranking the engine by holding on to the
starter button. And even then it wouldn't run well, some cylinders would
fire sometimes and once in a while, and the motor wouldn't really
synchronize. The only problem the bike had prior to the day that it
wouldn't start was that it was that the bike needed full choke for while
when it was cold. Also more throttle (higher rpm) prevented it from
stalling as easily. Once the bike was warm and running, there were no
problems. After the engine wouldn't start, the first thing I checked after
spark was the carburetors, but they actually looked pretty clean and I
could see through all the jets and everything. I know for a fact there is
an issue with piston ring/cylinder wall contact, because compression went
up from 110 to 175 when I put a little oil in cylinder 1 to help seal
whatever gap there might be. I just don't know if that low compression is
the only thing preventing the engine from staring.

On Thu, Sep 13, 2018 at 9:12 AM Lar <[email protected]> wrote:

> Ok, so you have spark, you have fuel in the carbs as per drain line fuel
> but I wonder about your comment "especially at higher rpm"  Are you saying
> the bike ran rough at slower rpm?  Is it possible your carb cleaning may
> have dislodged something which is now made things worse? Will the motor
> fire at all with the choke fully on? Best of luck.
>
>
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