Good morning. Took off the carbs. Took off 3 from the rack. Cleaned it 
thoroughly. Back on and still no luck. Any other suggestions?
I was thinking of taking off the spark plug and trying to hand crank it to see 
if the cylinder comes up and what is the state of the said cylinder.
What else?
Thank you.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 31, 2019, at 11:19 AM, Doug Jones <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> Jenya
> 
>         I would think that it would have to be fuel not getting to the 
> cylinder. Did you try spraying a little starting fluid into the third 
> carburetor? I wonder if that could get it to sputter....Did you clean the 
> carbs? I put mine into a Sonic Cleaner with Carb cleaner to get the circuits 
> clean.
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> DJ 
> 
>> On Wed, Jul 31, 2019 at 11:03 AM Jenya Spektor <[email protected]> wrote:
>> <IMG_3239.JPG>
>> Doug,
>> Thanks for the guidance on the non-working cylinder. I had removed the spark 
>> plug - it works. The compression is above 100 when I checked.
>> The plug itself is looking good as well - no weird deposits or discoloration.
>> Could not see the top of the piston. So you had mentioned it might be fuel - 
>> meaning the 3rd carb is not doing what it is supposed to do, correct?
>> Or is it something else?
>> Any help would be appreciated.
>> Jenya
>> 
>> 
>>> On Fri, Jul 26, 2019 at 10:14 AM Doug Jones <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> If I suspected that one of the cylinders was not firing I would remove the 
>>> spark plug and lay it on the engine making a good ground and just press the 
>>> starter button seeing if I could see a spark in the plug gap. if not either 
>>> bad plug, wire or coil. then shine a light down into the cylinder to see if 
>>> there isn't a bad piston (hole in the top).
>>> If you get spark and you compression test the cylinder and it is good then 
>>> its fuel...
>>> 
>>> Hope this helps
>>> 
>>>> On Fri, Jul 26, 2019 at 9:51 AM Jenya Spektor <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> I found the problem - one of the wires in the ignition switch came loose. 
>>>> Soldered it together and the bike started right up.
>>>> Now I have a new issue - cylinder 3 is not working (or so it seems - the 
>>>> header pipe is cold). The carbs were freshly cleaned and floats and float 
>>>> needles were replaced, all the jets checked and cleaned, all the openings 
>>>> blown out and free of any debris or deposits.
>>>> Where should I start? Compression? Spark plug?
>>>> And thanks for all the info on the continuity - will use it in the future 
>>>> to troubleshoot things.
>>>> J
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>>> On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 2:04 PM Doug Jones <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>> I had the same issue and found that where the fuses plug in the prongs 
>>>>> looked fine but were broken. I opened the box like in the picture and 
>>>>> tested continuity and found that there was none. When I tested for 
>>>>> voltage on the fuses I had 12 volts on top and bottom but when I opened 
>>>>> the box up and pluged the fuses in with out power I tested for continuity 
>>>>> attaching one lead to where the power comes in ( lower Right Hand corner 
>>>>> of the box) and went to the top and bottom of the fuse and got a BEEP. 
>>>>> when I went to the bottom of the bar that came off the fuse NO BEEP. It 
>>>>> turns out the prong touching the lower leg of the fuse was 
>>>>> MICROSCOPICALLY severed. When I took out the fuse and tested one side of 
>>>>> the prong BEEP and on the other side of the prong that touched the fuse 
>>>>> Nothing.
>>>>> 
>>>>> So to fix it I soldered wire against that leg and bent it inward so the 
>>>>> fuse HAD to touch it. I found two of the connections broken. Once I did 
>>>>> this my horn and signals worked. 
>>>>> 
>>>>> I hope this helped.
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Thursday, July 25, 2019 at 1:46:14 PM UTC-4, Kyle Munz wrote:
>>>>>> That would work for voltage, make sure the negative prong is in contact 
>>>>>> with ground, such as a bolt or some other unpainted surface on the frame 
>>>>>> or the negative terminal on the battery. The positive prong has to come 
>>>>>> in contact with the metal conductor of the wire you're testing. 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> To test the switch you would switch the multimeter to continuity (Ohms) 
>>>>>> rather than voltage. You can test your meter in this mode by touching 
>>>>>> the test probes together, it should go to 0 or possibly beep. When the 
>>>>>> probes are apart it should read infinite resistance or probably a 1, 
>>>>>> depends on the meter. When you touch the probes to two ends of the same 
>>>>>> wire it should read 0 resistance, if it doesn't you know you have a 
>>>>>> break in that circuit somewhere. On the ignition switch you would test 
>>>>>> for resistance between red/black and brown/white with one of the solid 
>>>>>> browns. With the key in the off position you should have infinite 
>>>>>> resistance for those two pairs since the circuit is open. When the key 
>>>>>> in the On position you should have 0 resistance between red/black, and 
>>>>>> the brown/white and one of the Browns. In the Park position you should 
>>>>>> have 0 resistance with the other Brown. 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> -Kyle
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 12:19 PM Jenya Spektor <[email protected]> 
>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>> Kyle,
>>>>>>> How to check properly for the voltage coming into the switch or the 
>>>>>>> fuse box? Stick the positive prong of the multimeter onto the open part 
>>>>>>> of the wire? Or inside of the plastic plug? As you can sense I am new 
>>>>>>> to anything electrical (and should not have even started to mss around 
>>>>>>> with the bike in the first place).
>>>>>>> Thanks, J
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 9:32 AM Kyle Munz <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>> You're going to need a multimeter. There's a table at the bottom left 
>>>>>>>> of the wiring diagram that shows which circuits are closed/open in the 
>>>>>>>> different positions of the switch. The fuseblock and ignition switch 
>>>>>>>> and main fuse are all quick/easy things to check, but if they don't 
>>>>>>>> turn up anything it's best to grab the diagram and methodically check 
>>>>>>>> things step by step. I usually start at the battery, make sure it has 
>>>>>>>> a good ground then go off the positive terminal and test each step for 
>>>>>>>> voltage. The starter relay, the red wire going to the fuse block, both 
>>>>>>>> sides of the fuse, the red wire coming out of the fuseblock into the 
>>>>>>>> ignition switch, and so on. Also, the dark green wires are the ground 
>>>>>>>> circuit, make sure that circuit is still grounded to the frame. Also 
>>>>>>>> to clarify, when you say no power you mean no lights or anything 
>>>>>>>> right? Not just no cranking?
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> -Kyle
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 6:33 AM Jenya Spektor <[email protected]> 
>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>> Did do everything you guys suggested. The fuse box looked very clean 
>>>>>>>>> and all the connections are very snug (see pics). Replaced the fuses 
>>>>>>>>> with a new set. Connected the plugs back in - still no power.  
>>>>>>>>> I am thinking the ignition switch?(since I did tug on the wires, 
>>>>>>>>> maybe they got dislodged inside the ignition switch housing?).
>>>>>>>>> What else should I do if that is not the case? Thanks as always.
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> On Jul 24, 2019, at 2:19 PM, Graham Rogers <[email protected]> 
>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> Try just jiggling fuses in place, see if anything lights up
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 2:17 PM Jenya Spektor <[email protected]> 
>>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>> I did check the fuse at solenoid - seems to be ok. I had replaced 
>>>>>>>>>>> it a few moth back and it seems to be ok.
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 2:15 PM Graham Rogers 
>>>>>>>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>> The problem with the 650 fuse block is where the fuses plug into. 
>>>>>>>>>>>> That’s where I have always had trouble. I solved it on my last 650 
>>>>>>>>>>>> by thickening the prongs on the fuses. I bent tiny pieces of 
>>>>>>>>>>>> aluminum over each prong and pushed the fuses in place.
>>>>>>>>>>>> However if you have no power at all, check the fuse at the solenoid
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 10:11 AM Kyle Munz <[email protected]> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>> The fuseblock on the 650 is right underneath the headlight 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> bucket, and the plugs on the back get loose with age. If you were 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> tugging on the wires it's possible they came disconnected. 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Especially check the plug with the red/black wires, it gets loose 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> and begins to arc and will melt the plastic fuseblock. 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> -Kyle
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Wed, Jul 24, 2019 at 8:59 AM Jenya Spektor 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Power no more...
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I am going to confess - it's entirely my fault. The bike was 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> starting and running fine until... I decided to change the gage 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> cluster to the single all-in-one gage. So I took off the light 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> and unhooked all the wires from the light bucket as well as 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> disconnected the old gage cluster. I did put on the new gage and 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the new light. Since the fittings did not work (brackets were 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> too small), i decided to temporarily put the original components 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> back on. I did reassemble everything back together, and upon 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> turning the ignition switch on there was NOTHING...
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I can't say where the power went out - I did not short anything, 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> all the connections were via plastic connectors and insulated 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> with shrink insulation. 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> The battery did not loose any power (it's at 12.5V). All the 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> fuses seem to be intact - no blown wires inside of them.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Questions:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 1. Since I have been pulling on the harness or some individual 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> wires, could be it be that? And if so, which wire would result 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> in cutting the power completely off?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 2. Which component (if I did short something) would cause the 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> bike to have no power?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 3. How do I troubleshoot the problem now?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 4. One of the horns did not work, could this prevent the power 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> from coming back on?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Appreciate any feedback.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Jenya
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> -- 
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>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> -- 
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>>>>>>>>>>>>> send an email to [email protected].
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>>>>>>>>>>>> 
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>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> -- 
>>>>>>>>>>> Jenya Spektor
>>>>>>>>>>> 917.202.3080
>>>>>>>>>>> -- 
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>>>>>>>>>> 
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>>>>>>>>> 
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>>>>>>>> 
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>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> -- 
>>>>>>> Jenya Spektor
>>>>>>> 917.202.3080
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>>>>> 
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>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> -- 
>>>> Jenya Spektor
>>>> 917.202.3080
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>>> 
>>> 
>>> -- 
>>> Douglas Alan Jones
>>> Network Engineer, Data Center Ops.
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>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> Jenya Spektor
>> 917.202.3080
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> 
> 
> -- 
> Douglas Alan Jones
> Network Engineer, Data Center Ops.
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