Jostein Oksne asked:
> 1. Can I trust the light-meter in the camera at all?
Not really.
> 2. If 1., what ISO-setting is considered good rule of thumb?
Kodak says to start at 50 if using a #25 filter (and metering
separately) and bracket widely from there. I've had that work
well. I've also had a couple rolls overexposed on every frame
despite bracketing on both sides by several stops. Some folks
use TTL metering with the camera set at 400, which is the same
as using a handheld meter at 50 with that filter in place.
Bracket, bracket, bracket. It's expensive film, and with
bracketing each shot several stops you don't get very many
poses per roll, but it's worth it 'cause when a scene works
in IR, well you get magic.
> 3. Probably some filtering will be needed. Red #25 springs to mind. But
> maybe that's a bit drastic?
No, that's a starting place. All the BW IR I've shot has been
with a #25. You want to cut out all or most of the visible
light (which is _not_ the case with false-colour IR).
> Are there others?
Yes -- there are two different filters that pass IR but are
opaque to visible light. I haven't had the spare cash to
get ahold of one yet.
> 4. I have a bottle of Agfa Neutol developer. Any experiences on this
> developer with HIE?
I don't do my own darkroom work (yet) so I can't help there.
My lab develops it in TMax.
> 5. When I handle the film in the darkroom; is the emulsion sensitive to body
> heat, eg. from my hands when reeling up the film on a spool?
Not unless your hands are nearly red-hot. :-) (AFAIK)
-- Glenn, who really should
have taken a roll of HIE
along to photograph miniature
trains this weekend.
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