Yep. I never found a squeege that worked as well as my fingers to clear the water. I also used that anti-spotting agent in the final bath. Can't remember what it's called. Been out of the darkroom too long:-). Paul -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: "P. J. Alling" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > You don't need no stinking squeegee, get your fingers nice and wet and > use them. Works fine and I've scratched less film that way, (zero > rolls), than I have using a dirty squeegee. > > Adam Maas wrote: > > Developing film is easy. You need a tank, a couple spools to load film on, > > a > couple graduated cylinders for measuring chemicals, a thermometer, squeegee > and > some film hangers for drying. Chemical-wise, developer (I use Rodinal and > TMax > Developer), stop bath and fixer are all that's required. You also need a dark > closet or small room for loading the film into the tank, once loaded > everything > else can be done in daylight > > > > Prints are more involved. Same chemicals(but paper developer instead of > > film > developer), but also needed are a darkroom, developing trays, enlarger, > contrast-control filters, paper, timer of some sort, darklight and a couple > other minor items. As my bathroom is too small for comfortably printing, I > don't > bother and just scan & print digitally. > > > > -Adam > > > > > > Glen Tortorella wrote: > > > >> Thank you very much, Scott. I have been wanting to try developing my > >> own prints, but I have feared doing so. I tend to be a > >> perfectionist, and I fear disappointment. I do not have the > >> equipment, either. What would I need? It would be great to have > >> someone show me the correct way of doing it... > >> > >> Regards, > >> Glen > >> > >> On Sep 7, 2007, at 11:06 AM, Scott Loveless wrote: > >> > >> > >>> Adam Maas wrote: > >>> > >>>> Glen, > >>>> > >>>> Mailers are a cheap option for getting E6 slide film processed. > >>>> They are not economical for B&W. For cheap processing of Fuji > >>>> Acros, do it yourself. I recommend Agfa or A&O Rodinal at 1:50 > >>>> dilution for 12 minutes at 20C, 30 seconds initial agitation with > >>>> 2 inversions per minute. Should run you about $0.60 or less per > >>>> roll (including stop & fix) if you 1-shot the dev and reuse stop & > >>>> fix. > >>>> > >>>> -Adam > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> > >>> I'll have to agree with Adam. For the price of having 8 or 10 > >>> rolls of > >>> B&W developed you could buy the chemicals and hardware to do it > >>> yourself. Rodinal is a good choice for slower film. If you're > >>> shooting > >>> at a higher ISO you might want to consider HC-110. It's a good > >>> general > >>> purpose developer. It comes in a concentrate, much like Rodinal, and > >>> will last a very long time. > >>> > >>> -- > >>> Scott Loveless > >>> http://www.twosixteen.com/fivetoedsloth/ > >>> > >>> > >>> -- > >>> PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List > >>> [email protected] > >>> http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net > >>> > >> > > > > > > > > > > > -- > Remember, itÂ’s pillage then burn. > > > -- > PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List > [email protected] > http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net
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