--- AlunFoto <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Mark Cassino wrote:
>
> > Nothing very high tech the setup can be found
> here
> >
>
http://www.markcassino.com/b2evolution/index.php?title=first_snow_crystals_winter_2007_08&more=1&c=1&tb=1&pb=1
> >
> > or
> >
> >http://tinyurl.com/2ma362
>
> Thanks for posting, Mark.
> I will have to get my act together too.
Looking forward to seeing some shots.
>
> One thing I've been meaning to ask you for a long
> time is how much
> post-processing you have to apply to your shots. For
> my own part, I
> find that the contrast range of the raw image is
> painfully narrow, and
> have to work the curves a bit to bring out all the
> detail. I also have
> to spend a good deal of time cloning out little dots
> of dust that
> attach itself to the glass plate.
When you consider that Wilson Bentley used a needle to
etch the emulsion off his film exposures to boost the
contrast, we have it pretty lucky with Photoshop.
I have to hit the curves and levels as well, though
last year I came up with some lighting techniques
inside the can that greatly increase the contrast. For
one thing - I just line part of the can with blue
plastic to give it a slight blue tint, but no longer
put the blue filter over the flash. I do a lot of the
toning in ACR just adjusting the white balance.
Cleaning of dust spots, both off the glass and the
sensor, seems to be inevitable. I clean the sensor at
the start of the season with Pec Pad (I think that is
the name) swabs - though it will not stay 100% clean
for long. I clean the glass between shots with an
alcohol / ammonia cleaner, but it will get dust and
errant ice flecks on it.
>
> Mostly I use available light and long exposures
> instead of flash.
> Sometimes I use a LED pocket light, which is the
> least heat-emitting
> light source I have been able to find. This year
> I've invested in a
> LED ring flash that I very much look forward to try
> with the flakes.
I was thinking of trying LED's, but the flash really
helps with motion blur.
>
> I think perhaps the conditions are better at your
> place than here.
> Usually when it snows here, the temperature is just
> below freezing (-1
> to -3 °C). I've literally seen the flakes evaporate
> after a AF-500FTZ
> flash discharge from 40 cm distance... :-(
It often snows right around the freezing point here,
but the lake effect snow will fall at very cold temps.
It was 22F (-5 C) when I was shooting - that was a
reading from the thermometer just under the lights. It
is usually a degree or two warmer inside the garage.
Sublimation seems to be related to relative humidity.
It sometimes is a problem here, sometimes not.
>
> The best conditions I've experienced was a couple of
> days in January
> 2006 when it snowed at -8 to -10 °C. The crystals
> were both noticeably
> easier to handle and less prone to melting. It also
> produced sharper
> images, believe it or not. :-) I think perhaps my
> long exposure times
> is the problem at temperatures close to zero because
> of the crystals
> melting during exposure, but it has been better than
> flash anyway.
> Your setup, especially with the diffuser inside the
> box, looks like a
> very good idea. However, I'd like to have some front
> lighting as well.
> hmmm... :-)
I use to setup a second flash on a slave trigger
(light sensitive electric eye) that put a small amount
of light across the front of the snow crystal. With
the reverse mounted lens there is not much working
room for front lighting!
- MCC
--------------------------
Mark Cassino Photography
Kalamamazoo, MI
www.markcassino.com
Photo Books:
www.lulu.com/cassino
--------------------------
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