I'll do my best to answer. Focus points are changed via menu or quick button access. You see on the lcd which focus point(s) is active. For someone who changes them all the time shot by shot, this would be very clumsy. For someone who picks one and leaves it, it works pretty well. There is a new choice besides the center, single point or all points - it is center cluster - think of it more like center weighted vs spot metering, but for AF instead. It uses the center 5 points and gives a broader base to work from when the subject may be slightly off center. In practice it works rather well and doesn't have the performance penalties of camera working with all points. So far, I have found the K-x to be better at AF than the K20, especially at focus tracking. I have also found the K20 to be better than the K10 at focusing across the board.
As to kit lens - it is the same optics as the other kit lenses. Rather good for what it is. I suspect, that final size of print may have something to do with acceptability. The other thing to consider is the speed which affects DOF. If you want a real shallow portrait, f/3.5-5.6 is not as good. My daughters use the kit lenses all the time for their portrait stuff and they look just fine. I personally use the DA* 16-50/2.8 or equivalent rather than the kit lens. But when size and weight are paramount, the kit lens gets the nod. The high ISO is plenty good enough - the bigger issue would be control of lighting. If you want catchlights in eyes, or control of shadows, then you may need flash or reflectors no matter how much light you have. As for needing flash as the main illuminator of the subject, the high ISO will help you there. Here is a shot at ISO 3200 with no flash fill or reflectors: http://www.daytonphoto.com/PAW/imgp1200-1.htm Since my son is the proud owner of my old K10D, I don't use it at all anymore, but do have the K20D. The K20 has worked a little better than the K10 with flash from all my usage (lots of weddings and portraits with both). So far, the K-x seems to do a little better with metering than the K20. Not having needed as much flash because of the high ISO capability, I haven't done extensive comparisons. I am pretty confident that it will outperform the K10D. I can say that right now, the K-x is more my primary camera than the K20, which is more of a primary camera than the K10. There are very few things the K20 can do better than the K-x. If I had to choose one body, it would probably be the K-x. As it stands right now, if I only take one body with me, it is the K-x. If I take both bodies, the K-x is the primary. I strongly suspect you would do the same with your K10. I hope this helps. -- Bruce Thursday, March 25, 2010, 7:14:24 AM, you wrote: DJB> -It seem there are not focus points visible in the finder, but i DJB> assume they are set via the menu.? Is that correct. DJB> -Any comments on the kit lens that comes with it. Would it be a decent DJB> lens to do out door portraits of the equine and owner persuasion.? DJB> -If the high ISO is that good, i'l assume for natural light, say a DJB> person or persons near a window with diffused light would work well. DJB> -How is it with the AF 360 flash, and better than my K10D for "keepers" DJB> Just thinking of the K-x as my second, or even first camera for an DJB> upcoming gig in May and the wedding. DJB> Dave DJB> -- DJB> Documenting Life in Rural Ontario. DJB> www.caughtinmotion.com DJB> http://brooksinthecountry.blogspot.com/ DJB> York Region, Ontario, Canada -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List [email protected] http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
