On Thu, Mar 25, 2010 at 11:14:13AM -0400, David J Brooks wrote:
> On Thu, Mar 25, 2010 at 10:41 AM, Bruce Dayton <[email protected]> 
> wrote:
> > I'll do my best to answer.
> >
> > Focus points are changed via menu or quick button access. ?You see on
> > the lcd which focus point(s) is active. ?For someone who changes them
> > all the time shot by shot, this would be very clumsy. ?For someone
> > who picks one and leaves it, it works pretty well.
> 
> That would be me, pick and stay, so no issue there.

That's how I like to work.  But I'm left-eyed, so I often find on my
old Pentax AF bodies that I've accidentally nose-pressed the four-way
controller and shifted the focus point somewhere else.  But at least
I can see that in the viewfinder when I don't get focus confirmation
at the AF point I'm expecting.

Would this be a problem on the K-x?  Or does the four-way controller
not select the AF point by default?  That was a problem with the K-7
when it was first released, but it got fixed in a firmware upgrade.
It looks to me as though I'd have one or other problem with the K-x.


> 
> >There is a new
> > choice besides the center, single point or all points - it is center
> > cluster - think of it more like center weighted vs spot metering, but
> > for AF instead. ?It uses the center 5 points and gives a broader base
> > to work from when the subject may be slightly off center. ?In
> > practice it works rather well and doesn't have the performance
> > penalties of camera working with all points.
> 
> 
> 
> Humm, interesting idea. Might be a good system for me.
> 
> 
> >So far, I have found
> > the K-x to be better at AF than the K20, especially at focus
> > tracking. ?I have also found the K20 to be better than the K10 at
> > focusing across the board.
> 
> So i have heard, which is good.
> 
> >
> > As to kit lens - it is the same optics as the other kit lenses.
> > Rather good for what it is. ?I suspect, that final size of print may
> > have something to do with acceptability.
> 
> 8x10 is about all they would produce, me, maybe an 11x14 once in a while.
> 
> 
> >The other thing to consider
> > is the speed which affects DOF. ?If you want a real shallow portrait,
> > f/3.5-5.6 is not as good. ?My daughters use the kit lenses all the
> > time for their portrait stuff and they look just fine. ?I personally
> > use the DA* 16-50/2.8 or equivalent rather than the kit lens. ?But
> > when size and weight are paramount, the kit lens gets the nod.
> 
> I;'m thinking more for the outdoor equine portrait work. As long as
> the back ground has a slight blur to it, should be fine. Any thing for
> the wedding will be mostly the DAF 50 2.8 or the 77 ltd. I don't have
> anything smaller than the 50 right now. Oh wait, i have the A 28,
> which i like, so good there.
> 
> >
> > The high ISO is plenty good enough - the bigger issue would be
> > control of lighting. ?If you want catchlights in eyes, or control of
> > shadows, then you may need flash or reflectors no matter how much
> > light you have.
> 
> Ya hopefully i can get someone, parent Liz etc to hold a reflector for
> me. They want as much natural light and as little flash as main source
> as possible. I have not seen the hall yet, but the flash would surely
> come out there.
> 
> >As for needing flash as the main illuminator of the
> > subject, the high ISO will help you there. ?Here is a shot at ISO
> > 3200 with no flash fill or reflectors:
> > http://www.daytonphoto.com/PAW/imgp1200-1.htm
> >
> > Since my son is the proud owner of my old K10D, I don't use it at all
> > anymore, but do have the K20D. ?The K20 has worked a little better
> > than the K10 with flash from all my usage (lots of weddings and
> > portraits with both).
> 
> My K10D is just so hit and miss, and i get much better luck with my
> D200 so i use that if its flash as main source or fill.
> 
> 
> >?So far, the K-x seems to do a little better
> > with metering than the K20. ?Not having needed as much flash because
> > of the high ISO capability, I haven't done extensive comparisons. ?I
> > am pretty confident that it will outperform the K10D.
> 
> Glad to hear about the metering.
> >
> > I can say that right now, the K-x is more my primary camera than the
> > K20, which is more of a primary camera than the K10. ?There are very
> > few things the K20 can do better than the K-x. ?If I had to choose
> > one body, it would probably be the K-x. ?As it stands right now, if I
> > only take one body with me, it is the K-x. ?If I take both bodies,
> > the K-x is the primary. ?I strongly suspect you would do the same
> > with your K10.
> 
> Probably.:-)
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Dave
> >
> > I hope this helps.
> >
> >
> > --
> > Bruce
> >
> >
> > Thursday, March 25, 2010, 7:14:24 AM, you wrote:
> >
> > DJB> -It seem there are not focus points visible in the finder, but i
> > DJB> assume they are set via the menu.? Is that correct.
> > DJB> -Any comments on the kit lens that comes with it. Would it be a decent
> > DJB> lens to do out door portraits of the equine and owner persuasion.?
> > DJB> -If the high ISO is that good, i'l assume for natural light, say a
> > DJB> person or persons near a window with diffused light would work well.
> >
> > DJB> -How is it with the AF 360 flash, and better than my K10D for "keepers"
> >
> > DJB> Just thinking of the K-x as my second, or even first camera for an
> > DJB> upcoming gig in May and the wedding.
> >
> > DJB> Dave
> >
> >
> >
> > DJB> --
> > DJB> Documenting Life in Rural Ontario.
> > DJB> www.caughtinmotion.com
> > DJB> http://brooksinthecountry.blogspot.com/
> > DJB> York Region, Ontario, Canada
> >
> >
> >
> >
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> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Documenting Life in Rural Ontario.
> www.caughtinmotion.com
> http://brooksinthecountry.blogspot.com/
> York Region, Ontario, Canada
> 
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