Ditto.

I have not really gotten a hang of manually selecting the focusing
points but have quickly adapted to the 5/11 options; it actually
reminds me of the MZ-5n/MZ-3 'wide'/'narrow' AF options.

Bong

On Thu, Mar 25, 2010 at 10:41 PM, Bruce Dayton <[email protected]> wrote:
> I'll do my best to answer.
>
> Focus points are changed via menu or quick button access.  You see on
> the lcd which focus point(s) is active.  For someone who changes them
> all the time shot by shot, this would be very clumsy.  For someone
> who picks one and leaves it, it works pretty well.  There is a new
> choice besides the center, single point or all points - it is center
> cluster - think of it more like center weighted vs spot metering, but
> for AF instead.  It uses the center 5 points and gives a broader base
> to work from when the subject may be slightly off center.  In
> practice it works rather well and doesn't have the performance
> penalties of camera working with all points.  So far, I have found
> the K-x to be better at AF than the K20, especially at focus
> tracking.  I have also found the K20 to be better than the K10 at
> focusing across the board.
>
> As to kit lens - it is the same optics as the other kit lenses.
> Rather good for what it is.  I suspect, that final size of print may
> have something to do with acceptability.  The other thing to consider
> is the speed which affects DOF.  If you want a real shallow portrait,
> f/3.5-5.6 is not as good.  My daughters use the kit lenses all the
> time for their portrait stuff and they look just fine.  I personally
> use the DA* 16-50/2.8 or equivalent rather than the kit lens.  But
> when size and weight are paramount, the kit lens gets the nod.
>
> The high ISO is plenty good enough - the bigger issue would be
> control of lighting.  If you want catchlights in eyes, or control of
> shadows, then you may need flash or reflectors no matter how much
> light you have.  As for needing flash as the main illuminator of the
> subject, the high ISO will help you there.  Here is a shot at ISO
> 3200 with no flash fill or reflectors:
> http://www.daytonphoto.com/PAW/imgp1200-1.htm
>
> Since my son is the proud owner of my old K10D, I don't use it at all
> anymore, but do have the K20D.  The K20 has worked a little better
> than the K10 with flash from all my usage (lots of weddings and
> portraits with both).  So far, the K-x seems to do a little better
> with metering than the K20.  Not having needed as much flash because
> of the high ISO capability, I haven't done extensive comparisons.  I
> am pretty confident that it will outperform the K10D.
>
> I can say that right now, the K-x is more my primary camera than the
> K20, which is more of a primary camera than the K10.  There are very
> few things the K20 can do better than the K-x.  If I had to choose
> one body, it would probably be the K-x.  As it stands right now, if I
> only take one body with me, it is the K-x.  If I take both bodies,
> the K-x is the primary.  I strongly suspect you would do the same
> with your K10.
>
> I hope this helps.
>
>
> --
> Bruce
>
>
> Thursday, March 25, 2010, 7:14:24 AM, you wrote:
>
> DJB> -It seem there are not focus points visible in the finder, but i
> DJB> assume they are set via the menu.? Is that correct.
> DJB> -Any comments on the kit lens that comes with it. Would it be a decent
> DJB> lens to do out door portraits of the equine and owner persuasion.?
> DJB> -If the high ISO is that good, i'l assume for natural light, say a
> DJB> person or persons near a window with diffused light would work well.
>
> DJB> -How is it with the AF 360 flash, and better than my K10D for "keepers"
>
> DJB> Just thinking of the K-x as my second, or even first camera for an
> DJB> upcoming gig in May and the wedding.
>
> DJB> Dave
>
>
>
> DJB> --
> DJB> Documenting Life in Rural Ontario.
> DJB> www.caughtinmotion.com
> DJB> http://brooksinthecountry.blogspot.com/
> DJB> York Region, Ontario, Canada
>
>
>
>
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-- 
Bong Manayon
http://www.bong.uni.cc

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